Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia trip report 2013

[Cousin Orville]

Day 7 Hanoi part 1

Today begins with some Tai Chi in a park close by. It was early, but well worth it. There were other locals doing Tai Chi, badminton, group dancing and generally having a good time. After our morning Tai Chi it was back to the hotel to get ready for the day.

We took an electric car through Hanoi's Old Quarter. It's interesting that all the stores on each street for the most part sell one type of item. Kitchen applicances, electronics, party decorations, tee shirts, fruit and vegetables, etc. It's like going through grocery store aisles.

Then we headed over to Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum. With ABD, we skipped the incredibly long, hot line. We headed in past all the locals waiting (wonder what they were thinking). It was one of the oddest things I've ever done seeing Ho Chi Minh, but there he was in there... resting. Needless to say, no photos were allowed. Also had to have knees covered, so guys going on this ABD would be smart to bring light weight pants. We toured HCM's nearby home, the one pillared pagoda and a few other places of interest.

Afterwards we went to see the downed B52 bomber. Anyone who saw the last Amazing Race will recognize it instantly. It's in the middle of a residential area of Hanoi. I'm glad they took us here as it wasn't on the schedule and I wanted to see it. I've heard it's difficult to find your way here on your own. Cab drivers have no idea what you're talking about. To be fair, there were only 16 ppl on our ABD so I would be surprised if they decided to take the next few groups to the plane. Navigating 40 guests safely through the busy alleyways would be a challenge. I've heard they may arrange cabs for those who want to see it. That's probably the most realistic option and certainly best for those who don't really want to see it.

I'll stop here for a bit. There were a lot of photos I wanted to share. We'll pick up in part 2 later.

Gavin takes his Tai Chi very seriously

heard this line (which we skipped) was over 2 hrs long

 

[DisFan10]

Great photos, Cousin Orville!

What time did the Tai Chi lesson start and how long did it last? Did everyone participate? I like the nifty black Tai Chi uniforms.

It's nice that you had such a small group. I hope we have less than 20 too.

 

[New England Eeyore]

Thanks so much for taking the time to share this - I am enjoying it very much. This trip is definitely on my bucket list. For most of the past decade I've worked in a community with a large Vietnamese and Cambodian population (and some Laotians). I've come to appreciate their culture so much more, and especially the food! I do believe I could eat bun every day for the rest of my life and I'm seriously hooked on fish sauce.

Can't wait to read about Cambodia!

 

[sayhello]

More great photos! I love your pics of the locals. I also really love how serious your son is. Did everyone get a uniform?

Was that downed B52 just left where it landed? How strange. It makes an odd sort of art.

Sayhello

 

[Cousin Orville]

Great photos, Cousin Orville!

What time did the Tai Chi lesson start and how long did it last? Did everyone participate? I like the nifty black Tai Chi uniforms.

It's nice that you had such a small group. I hope we have less than 20 too.

Tai Chi was at 7am and lasted about 30 min. Not everyone participated. I think a couple of people slept in.

I think our group was so small because, school was still in session for a lot of the country. The group after ours (going on right now) was supposed to be 38.

 

[Cousin Orville]

More great photos! I love your pics of the locals. I also really love how serious your son is. Did everyone get a uniform?

Was that downed B52 just left where it landed? How strange. It makes an odd sort of art.

Sayhello

Yep, everyone gets a uniform!

Yeah, the downed B52 is definitely odd especially considering those are just regular homes/appts right there.

 

[Cousin Orville]

Day 7 Hanoi part 2

After the B52 we headed to the Temple of Literature. About 1000 yrs old, its dedicated to scholars and education. It's the oldest university in Vietnam. Those students who passed their royal exams have their names etched into the large tablets on display forever. Very beautiful place.

Next was an optional stop at the "Hanoi Hilton". Everyone got off the couch to visit. While parts Saigon's War Remnants Museum is not appropriate for young children, the prison is fine. There's not much of it left really. Only a few rooms and a few cell blocks. They do have John McCain's flight suit on display - another highlight for my son having been featured on The Amazing Race. He was very excited to find it. They also have a nice memorial - albeit I believe it is more for the Vietnamese that suffered under the French there (it was originally a French prison) rather than for the Americans, but I'm not entirely sure. There's always a bit of government propaganda that you'll see here and there, but it's far outweighed by the honesty and genuineness of the people that you'll meet.

It was a busy morning. Once we headed back to the hotel, we went straight to lunch. Food was great. Gavin and I shared a pizza (needed a break from SE Asian cuisine) and my Dad had pho. Both were great. The Metropole hotel makes its own ice cream and it is awesome. Some of the best you'll ever have. We had it a number of different places. Here I think we had chocolate and cinnamon - my favorite.

The bunker tour was next. And I've already touched on it a bit. After a 50 min tour of the china cabinet we headed outside to the pool area where the newly constructed stairs lead down to the original bunker. And there it is - a concrete bunker. Cool for 5-10 min. Not quite sure about the lecture leading up to it.

In the evening we took pedicabs to the lake. It was an adventure crossing the major streets. The lake was awesome. Everyone's out having a great time. Very few, if any, westerners around. They have a beautiful red Japanese style bridge leading over to a temple. A lot of kids playing, brides in white gowns taking photos, and young adults who wanted to practice their English with us. Just walking around was relaxing.

We headed over to the Opera Club Novel (not to be confused with the Club Opera right across the street from the hotel for anyone going). Awesome Vietnamese food. Highly recommended. It was in the heart of the French Quarter which reminded me a lot of New Orleans French Quarter with the iron work and balconies. It was very close to the hotel too. We walked back to the hotel passing the real Hanoi Hilton in the right of the last picture. Apparently if you just grab a cab and ask to go to the Hanoi Hilton, this is where they take you.

The "Hanoi Hilton"

The stairs leading down to the bunker

More ice cream at the pool bar after the bunker tour

 

[smep013]

I found him on the trip advisor forums almost by accident. There's not the plethora of info out there on private guides in Saigon as there is in Europe, so it was a little roll of the dice. Anyway, he's excellent and has been one of my best private (non Disney) guides anywhere. His name is Bao Loc and his email address is privatevietnamtourguide@yahoo.com.vn

Thank you for this! We leave a week from today and have two pre-nights. I just emailed him!

 

[DisFan10]

Another great installment, Cousin Orville. I really enjoy looking at your pics. They're all very interesting and nicely framed.

I think the only exhibit at the Hanoi Hilton that's not appropriate for children is the guillotine and photos. They were pretty gruesome...

We're also big Amazing Race fans and got a kick out of seeing them in Hanoi last season. The team challenges of matching the slogans and then shopping for ingredients were quite entertaining.

We'll have to try the ice cream at the Metropole. It sure looks refreshing.

Looking forward to your next installment!

 

[DisFan10]

Hi Cousin Orville,

How much did you pay for Bao Loc's tour? What did the itinerary include? We have a couple of pre-days in Saigon and would definitely like to see the sites with one of the best private non-Disney guides you've found anywhere. Thanks!

 

[Cousin Orville]

Thank you for this! We leave a week from today and have two pre-nights. I just emailed him!

You won't be disappointed. Tell him we said hi. I don't think he takes many 8 yr olds around so he'll remember us.

 

[Cousin Orville]

Another great installment, Cousin Orville. I really enjoy looking at your pics. They're all very interesting and nicely framed.

I think the only exhibit at the Hanoi Hilton that's not appropriate for children is the guillotine and photos. They were pretty gruesome...

We're also big Amazing Race fans and got a kick out of seeing them in Hanoi last season. The team challenges of matching the slogans and then shopping for ingredients were quite entertaining.

We'll have to try the ice cream at the Metropole. It sure looks refreshing.

Looking forward to your next installment!

Very good points. I must have walked right past any overly gruesome photos. The few pictures I stopped to look at were of famished prisoners and were associated with museum descriptions next to exhibits/prisoner cells. My son isn't one to read museum write-ups and so he and the other children his age from what I could see walked right past them paying them little interest. I didn't find the prison inappropriate as I did the Tiger Cages and 2nd floor of the War Remnants museum. But for anyone going, it's an optional stop. You can go right back to the hotel if you want.

Even the Temple of Literature was featured in last season's Amazing Race. It was where they played the human chess game.

I think between Gavin and me, we tried every ice cream flavor they had. They were very tasty. But the Metropole is just an incredible hotel. So glad ABD decided to stay here.

 

[Cousin Orville]

Hi Cousin Orville,

How much did you pay for Bao Loc's tour? What did the itinerary include? We have a couple of pre-days in Saigon and would definitely like to see the sites with one of the best private non-Disney guides you've found anywhere. Thanks!

$130 including a private car plus tip. We started at 9am and ended around 2 pm. Be sure to let him know not to take you to the War Remnants Museum as ABD takes you there. We did what was I think his standard city tour - seeing old Saigon, the contemporary Saigon, and the future (neat and off the beaten path). Afterwards he offered to take us anywhere else we wanted. We asked if he could take us to a great local Pho restaurant and he did (which we paid for). I think he would have kept going but we were pretty tired after lunch and so headed back to the hotel. The only places we didn't hit and went to the next day was INSIDE the Reunification Palace and Ben Thanh market. The market he took us to was much more interesting. A terrific bargain compared to comparable European private tours. You'll have a great time.

We saw:
Chua Ba Thien Hau Temple
Jade Emperor Pagoda
Binh Tay market
Post Office
Rex Hotel
Old CIA building
Outside of the Reunification Palace
Across the River to see the new construction

 

[DisFan10]

Very good points. I must have walked right past any overly gruesome photos. The few pictures I stopped to look at were of famished prisoners and were associated with museum descriptions next to exhibits/prisoner cells. My son isn't one to read museum write-ups and so he and the other children his age from what I could see walked right past them paying them little interest. I didn't find the prison inappropriate as I did the Tiger Cages and 2nd floor of the War Remnants museum. But for anyone going, it's an optional stop. You can go right back to the hotel if you want.

Even the Temple of Literature was featured in last season's Amazing Race. It was where they played the human chess game.

I think between Gavin and me, we tried every ice cream flavor they had. They were very tasty. But the Metropole is just an incredible hotel. So glad ABD decided to stay here.

Is the ice cream shop the same store that sells the delicious French pastries? I'll definitely have to try the chocolate cinnamon.

Also, did you guys stay in the new wing of the Metropole or the original wing?

 

[DisFan10]

$130 including a private car plus tip. We started at 9am and ended around 2 pm. Be sure to let him know not to take you to the War Remnants Museum as ABD takes you there. We did what was I think his standard city tour - seeing old Saigon, the contemporary Saigon, and the future (neat and off the beaten path). Afterwards he offered to take us anywhere else we wanted. We asked if he could take us to a great local Pho restaurant and he did (which we paid for). I think he would have kept going but we were pretty tired after lunch and so headed back to the hotel. The only places we didn't hit and went to the next day was INSIDE the Reunification Palace and Ben Thanh market. The market he took us to was much more interesting. A terrific bargain compared to comparable European private tours. You'll have a great time.

We saw:
Chua Ba Thien Hau Temple
Jade Emperor Pagoda
Binh Tay market
Post Office
Rex Hotel
Old CIA building
Outside of the Reunification Palace
Across the River to see the new construction

Thanks so much for the detailed info. We also love pho, so we'll ask Bao to take us to the same place! Does AbD take us inside the Reunification Palace and to Ben Thanh Market?

 

[Cousin Orville]

Is the ice cream shop the same store that sells the delicious French pastries? I'll definitely have to try the chocolate cinnamon.

Also, did you guys stay in the new wing of the Metropole or the original wing?

The ice cream is sold everywhere. Gavin had it at the French restaurant. We had it pool side restaurant, and we had it at the pool side bar/lounge. I think you can even get it from room service. The chocolate and cinnamon are separate flavors. We just ordered the two scoops together. Didn't want you to be disappointed. From what I remember there is Chocolate, Vanilla, Strawberry, Caramel, Coconut, Cinnamon, and Pistachio. I may be forgetting one.

We stayed in the new wing.

 

[Cousin Orville]

Day 8 Luang Prabang, Laos

It was sad to leave Vietnam, but exciting to get way off the beaten path into Laos. Apparently Luang Prabang is becoming more popular with tourists but most are from Thailand, Vietnam, Australia, and Europe. Very few Americans make it over there. The country is beautiful. As our guide Jennae says, it's like entering The Jungle Book. That's pretty much it. Another guest asked our hop on guide if there were many other luxury hotels in the town like where we're at. She laughed a bit and said, "no, your hotel is it." I don't think that's entirely true, but it paints a good picture.

We visited the local musuem which we enjoyed quite a bit. We had to remove our shoes like in a temple to tour the rooms. And it was open air for the most part. Just large shutters to close up at night. But the artifacts were actually quite astonishing. Beautiful 1000 yr old golden Buddhas and royal thrones. Unfortunately no pictures allowed.


It was getting hot and humid. Time for a drink. Here if you're on the move, they pour the soda in a bag to keep the can or bottle for recycling. It makes for good pics and was a highlight for Gavin. He still talks about soda in a bag. Afterwards, we visited a couple of wats. I can't remember their names, but they were wonderful. Luang Prabang was much quieter and peaceful than anywhere we had visited in Vietnam. Really a worthwhile stop.

The hotel was another amazing resort. It's appearance set against the jungle mountains reminded me of the main building in Jurassic Park. And FWIW you're off the grid for sure. No cellular data although the hotel has ok wifi.

At night we had a beautiful buffet set up poolside under the starts. Another homerun for ABD.

 

[DisFan10]

Hi Cousin Orville,

Luang Prabang looks very lush and exotic. Did you experience any problems with mosquitoes? How was the food? Did you find any good restaurants?

 

[figmentfan2009]

Okay... we got our backpacks yesterday... which means we are almost at the GO mark (we leave in 19 days!). I need to know if I should toss one of the gray duffles we got on other trips into our suitcases or if they magically show up again on this trip. We always pack a just in case bag... and DH is looking at what to toss in, or if he can rely on having one of those just in case.

I love your trip report... I'm really getting excited!!! Now... I just have to plan the down time in Hanoi

 

[Cousin Orville]

Hi Cousin Orville,

Luang Prabang looks very lush and exotic. Did you experience any problems with mosquitoes? How was the food? Did you find any good restaurants?

Mosquitoes aren't bad, but it's probably a good idea to use some repellent when in Laos and Cambodia.

In Laos all meals are provided by ABD. We ate in town at the Coconut Garden when you first arrive in Laos. I enjoyed it. They had a good coconut ice cream for desert. Dinners were both at the resort. They set up a buffet pool side the first night and the food was very good. They call it a barbecue, which I think is just ABD code for buffet. They did have an area where they grilled to order some dishes. I think they may have been cooking pho to order as well. I can't quite remember. I do recall they had a good Pad Thai. I don't want to give ABD a complete pass on their buffets. I would have preferred to order off a menu and have it cooked to order. However, compared to the buffet we had on our France ABD which was terrible, this was much better. The second night was JA night. For the adults it was beer tasting in the resort dining room. They offered a couple of Lao beers - both good. Then we ordered dinner off the menu, which I prefer. I think I rememeber getting a Thai curry dish which was quite spicy but very good. Lunch the 2nd day was a prepared sack lunch. What can i say.... Considering where we were that day, I'm guessing there just weren't any other options.