AlbertZeroK
Mouseketeer
- Joined
- Jun 27, 2010
...
Zoom lenses
- Thread starter sweetpeakaris
- Start date
handicap18
<font color=blue>Husband, father of 3, and Disney
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2005
55/18=3. The 18-55mm lens is basically a 3x zoom.
200/55=3.6. The 55-200mm lens is basically a 3.6x zoom.
You can get an all in one lens like an 18-200mm (11x zoom) or Tamron makes an 18-250mm lens (13.8x zoom) instead of the 18-55mm. It will cost more money. But overall what your getting over the S5IS is sensor is that MUCH MUCH larger which gives you more flexibility with night shots (for one example) and your getting a camera that gives you the ability to change lenses. Camera's are tools. With the right tools you have the capability to get more shots. Your lens options are endless. Your not going to get shots on Pirates of the Caribbean with an S5 IS. You can try, but you can't use a flash on that ride and the focus and shutter release aren't really fast enough to use on a moving ride indoors with little light. With the dSLR you can get up the ISO higher (to capture more light) and put on a lens with a MUCH wider aperture (basically the iris of your eye, in photo terms this would be the f/stops) and get great shots with just a little practice.
In the end what lens/lenses you should go with will depend on your own personal shooting habits and your budget.
200/55=3.6. The 55-200mm lens is basically a 3.6x zoom.
You can get an all in one lens like an 18-200mm (11x zoom) or Tamron makes an 18-250mm lens (13.8x zoom) instead of the 18-55mm. It will cost more money. But overall what your getting over the S5IS is sensor is that MUCH MUCH larger which gives you more flexibility with night shots (for one example) and your getting a camera that gives you the ability to change lenses. Camera's are tools. With the right tools you have the capability to get more shots. Your lens options are endless. Your not going to get shots on Pirates of the Caribbean with an S5 IS. You can try, but you can't use a flash on that ride and the focus and shutter release aren't really fast enough to use on a moving ride indoors with little light. With the dSLR you can get up the ISO higher (to capture more light) and put on a lens with a MUCH wider aperture (basically the iris of your eye, in photo terms this would be the f/stops) and get great shots with just a little practice.
In the end what lens/lenses you should go with will depend on your own personal shooting habits and your budget.
ssanders79
NO FLASH photography means just that!
- Joined
- Jul 25, 2008
There is also a free way to get more reach out of your lenses... Your feet. I know this is not always an option at WDW, but it is something to keep in mind.
Before I bought my SLR, I had a Canon S3IS, which had a large zoom. I loved having that reach and used it a lot. When I first started using my SLR, I noticed the difference in the reach and I missed it. I don't any more. I'm learning to move around more to compose my images and to think more about focal length creatively with respect to both the angle of coverage that I get and the amount of compression/perspective distortion they will give. I guess what I'm trying to say is that it is definitely convenient to be able to zoom in really close and you will lose that to some degree with your SLR, especially with an 18-55, but you will gain so much more creative control that it's really worth it.
jkluttrell
Mouseketeer
- Joined
- May 20, 2008
That is what I was afraid of!
jkluttrell
Mouseketeer
- Joined
- May 20, 2008
HA! A novel idea I know. But my kids play soccer, softball and basketball and getting in close for the shot is not always possible.
jkluttrell
Mouseketeer
- Joined
- May 20, 2008
Thank you, this is very helpful! I guess once I upgrade I will just have to get used to cropping my photos and using iphoto more.
boBQuincy
<font color=green>I am not carrying three pods<br>
- Joined
- Nov 26, 2002
zackiedawg
WEDway Peoplemover Rider
- Joined
- Aug 5, 2008
OK...here comes a big fat bunch of numbers - follow me if you can, as I'll try to present a lot of info but hopefully in a way that can be followed in the end. I'll stick with the well-used '35mm equivalent' number as it is the most commonly used.
Those '35mm' equivalents are based on what is commonly referred to as a 'full frame sensor', based on the 35mm film standard. What happens whenever you go with a sensor that's smaller than the big full-frame sensor is that you start to introduce a 'crop factor' - that is, because of the smaller sensor, you are seeing a smaller section of the full frame - the effect would be similar to enlarging the full frame view on your monitor to 'crop' into the photo - you are 'zooming in' on the photo which crops out the edges of the frame, presenting you with a smaller section of the photo to view. Most DSLRs are what's known as an 'APS-C' sensor...these sensors have a crop factor equivalent of 1.5x to 1.6x. Which means that a lens labeled 24mm on an APS-C camera provides the equivalent field of view of 24mm x 1.5, or 36mm. P&S cameras have even more 'crop factor'...the sensors in compact cameras are itty-bitty little things...most P&S cameras have a crop factor of around 6x (varies a little by camera). The lenses have such small numbers on them that P&S companies don't even bother to tell you those numbers - they prefer to just give you the 'zoom' amount, and if you dig for more info, they'll tell you the '35mm equivalent' lens range, which has already factored in that 6x crop. So when you have a P&S camera with a '36mm equivalent lens', what that camera really has is a tiny 6mm lens and a 6x crop factor. Look on the lens of any P&S camera - you'll usually see tiny little numbers like '3.5-4.6/6.18-24.7'. That's all the true lens info right there - the first numbers are the maximum apertures (F3.5 at the wide end, F4.6 at the telephoto end), and the true lens focal range (6.18mm x 24.7mm). Factor in the crop of the tiny sensor, and you've got a 37.08mm x 148.2mm range in 35mm equivalence.
How much 'x' a zoom has is always based on what the widest lens setting is. The bigger number of 'x' DOESN'T always mean you can see distant objects better. If a camera has a wide lens setting of 24mm, and a 12x lens, you would multiply the 24mm by the zoom factor of 12, and you get 288mm. Now, take a camera that has a 36mm wide setting, and say that camera only has a 10x zoom. Less than the 12x zoom, right? No...because multiplying 36mm by the 10x zoom factor, you get 360mm. The 10x can see farther than the 12x! But the 12x camera can fit more into the picture when standing up close, because it can see wider.
When going to DSLRs, they stop using the 'x' figure, and just stick with those 'mm' numbers. You can see right away that most DSLRs you buy are APS-C sized sensors, and remember they all have a little crop factor (Canon's APS-C cameras are 1.6x, Nikon, Sony, and Pentax are all 1.5x...I'm sticking with the 1.5x for ease!). So when you get a kit lens that's an '18-55mm', you multiply your crop factor of 1.5, and you end up with a 35mm-equivalent range of 27mm to 82.5mm. How many 'x' the lens is can be determined by dividing the telephoto by the wide, or 82.5 divided by 27...you get roughly 3x.
You can see why superzoom cameras are popular as all-in-one travel cameras - your S5 with the 36mm wide equivalent and 12x zoom has a telephoto equivalent of 432mm. To get that same range in one lens on a DSLR would cost...nope, nothing available in that range! But all is not lost. As mentioned, you CAN get some DSLR lenses that function much like a superzoom camera - the afformentioned Tamron 18-250mm lens, for example, is nearly 14x, and on most DSLRs provides the equivalent of 27mm to 375mm. Considering it can go wider than your S5, though not as long, it has the same convenience factor. And there's the sensor size and image quality to consider - at the resolution levels of most DSLR cameras today, from their massively larger sensors compared to your P&S camera, you can crop your photo as much as in half, and still have the quality you had with your P&S camera.
Hope all of that wasn't too confusing. When you decide to get your DSLR - and make sure you are ready to go to a bigger, heavier camera with extra lenses and such - for all the wonderful benefits you can get from it - you might shop around a bit and consider getting just a camera body with no kit lenses (if available, you can save a little by opting for no kit lenses) and buy one of the 'superzoom' lenses like an 18-200 or 18-250 right off the bat. That way, you'll be starting with the DSLR with one nice, convenient lens that you won't have to swap or change, and it will give you the same type of convenience you had with your S5. It will be a little pricier - but so much more convenient, and you won't have to look for a 55-200 lens later. Some folks even find one lens like this is all they ever need.
One more tip too - don't be afraid to buy used lenses - you can find some great older lenses in your camera mount that will work very well and save a ton. Best of luck!
Those '35mm' equivalents are based on what is commonly referred to as a 'full frame sensor', based on the 35mm film standard. What happens whenever you go with a sensor that's smaller than the big full-frame sensor is that you start to introduce a 'crop factor' - that is, because of the smaller sensor, you are seeing a smaller section of the full frame - the effect would be similar to enlarging the full frame view on your monitor to 'crop' into the photo - you are 'zooming in' on the photo which crops out the edges of the frame, presenting you with a smaller section of the photo to view. Most DSLRs are what's known as an 'APS-C' sensor...these sensors have a crop factor equivalent of 1.5x to 1.6x. Which means that a lens labeled 24mm on an APS-C camera provides the equivalent field of view of 24mm x 1.5, or 36mm. P&S cameras have even more 'crop factor'...the sensors in compact cameras are itty-bitty little things...most P&S cameras have a crop factor of around 6x (varies a little by camera). The lenses have such small numbers on them that P&S companies don't even bother to tell you those numbers - they prefer to just give you the 'zoom' amount, and if you dig for more info, they'll tell you the '35mm equivalent' lens range, which has already factored in that 6x crop. So when you have a P&S camera with a '36mm equivalent lens', what that camera really has is a tiny 6mm lens and a 6x crop factor. Look on the lens of any P&S camera - you'll usually see tiny little numbers like '3.5-4.6/6.18-24.7'. That's all the true lens info right there - the first numbers are the maximum apertures (F3.5 at the wide end, F4.6 at the telephoto end), and the true lens focal range (6.18mm x 24.7mm). Factor in the crop of the tiny sensor, and you've got a 37.08mm x 148.2mm range in 35mm equivalence.
How much 'x' a zoom has is always based on what the widest lens setting is. The bigger number of 'x' DOESN'T always mean you can see distant objects better. If a camera has a wide lens setting of 24mm, and a 12x lens, you would multiply the 24mm by the zoom factor of 12, and you get 288mm. Now, take a camera that has a 36mm wide setting, and say that camera only has a 10x zoom. Less than the 12x zoom, right? No...because multiplying 36mm by the 10x zoom factor, you get 360mm. The 10x can see farther than the 12x! But the 12x camera can fit more into the picture when standing up close, because it can see wider.
When going to DSLRs, they stop using the 'x' figure, and just stick with those 'mm' numbers. You can see right away that most DSLRs you buy are APS-C sized sensors, and remember they all have a little crop factor (Canon's APS-C cameras are 1.6x, Nikon, Sony, and Pentax are all 1.5x...I'm sticking with the 1.5x for ease!). So when you get a kit lens that's an '18-55mm', you multiply your crop factor of 1.5, and you end up with a 35mm-equivalent range of 27mm to 82.5mm. How many 'x' the lens is can be determined by dividing the telephoto by the wide, or 82.5 divided by 27...you get roughly 3x.
You can see why superzoom cameras are popular as all-in-one travel cameras - your S5 with the 36mm wide equivalent and 12x zoom has a telephoto equivalent of 432mm. To get that same range in one lens on a DSLR would cost...nope, nothing available in that range! But all is not lost. As mentioned, you CAN get some DSLR lenses that function much like a superzoom camera - the afformentioned Tamron 18-250mm lens, for example, is nearly 14x, and on most DSLRs provides the equivalent of 27mm to 375mm. Considering it can go wider than your S5, though not as long, it has the same convenience factor. And there's the sensor size and image quality to consider - at the resolution levels of most DSLR cameras today, from their massively larger sensors compared to your P&S camera, you can crop your photo as much as in half, and still have the quality you had with your P&S camera.
Hope all of that wasn't too confusing. When you decide to get your DSLR - and make sure you are ready to go to a bigger, heavier camera with extra lenses and such - for all the wonderful benefits you can get from it - you might shop around a bit and consider getting just a camera body with no kit lenses (if available, you can save a little by opting for no kit lenses) and buy one of the 'superzoom' lenses like an 18-200 or 18-250 right off the bat. That way, you'll be starting with the DSLR with one nice, convenient lens that you won't have to swap or change, and it will give you the same type of convenience you had with your S5. It will be a little pricier - but so much more convenient, and you won't have to look for a 55-200 lens later. Some folks even find one lens like this is all they ever need.
One more tip too - don't be afraid to buy used lenses - you can find some great older lenses in your camera mount that will work very well and save a ton. Best of luck!
handicap18
<font color=blue>Husband, father of 3, and Disney
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2005
Nikon makes a 28-300mm (also Tamron has one too). On a Nikon crop body it has the field of view of 42-450. Which is a 11x zoom.
Just something else to think about.
updated 10/22/10 - I just wanted to thank everyone for their suggestions. I have decided to wait to purchase. I don't want to buy one lense just because that is what I can afford, so I'm be patient. Unfortunately that means not having it for my upcoming vacation. More importantly, I wanted to thank you all for suggesting I get more comfortable using my camera manually rather than auto. I have had alot of fun playing with it. I've read, reread, and reread serveral more times the owners manual. Although, most of my pictures aren't post-able at this time, I've really had fun. I have found that the simplest object can be fun to film. When I was younger I always went for the beauty shot. Now, a coffee mug can be fun to shoot. 
Thank you all so so very much.
Now, I must log off & take pictures of my luggage as I bring it out to get ready to pack.
Hi Everyone,
History- of the "photographer" in me...I'm not one. Years ago I used an old Pentax SLR. Not that I ever got shots like I see on this site. Last Christmas Santa brought me a Canon DSLR, which I love.
Now- However, I hadn't used my SLR in true SLR fashion for years, as it had a few mishaps over the years, so I used a point and shoot for most of my shots. I have over the years "forgotten" alot of the basics of shooting with manual focus f-stops aperatures,etc. So, until I have time to take a class, then take it again ( I don't retain well these days),
assistance needed from you all - I am wondering if anyone here could help me pick a lens that will help me use my dslr more proficiently as automatic. Budget is a concern. I know how expensive they are. My main complaint is getting close to an object. I generally need to be seated while taking pictures, which can make it very difficult to get close to the objects I tend to take picture of ....people. For instance I was at a Christening yesterday, and altough the pictures are very good for crop/zoom, I feel like I am missing something by cropping so much. Any ideas.
Like I say, I don't retain very well these days. The simplier the better. Thanks. And thanks for all the beautiful pictures. I have enjoyed them soo much over the past year or so.
Thank you all so so very much. Now, I must log off & take pictures of my luggage as I bring it out to get ready to pack.
Hi Everyone,
History- of the "photographer" in me...I'm not one. Years ago I used an old Pentax SLR. Not that I ever got shots like I see on this site. Last Christmas Santa brought me a Canon DSLR, which I love.
Now- However, I hadn't used my SLR in true SLR fashion for years, as it had a few mishaps over the years, so I used a point and shoot for most of my shots. I have over the years "forgotten" alot of the basics of shooting with manual focus f-stops aperatures,etc. So, until I have time to take a class, then take it again ( I don't retain well these days),
assistance needed from you all - I am wondering if anyone here could help me pick a lens that will help me use my dslr more proficiently as automatic. Budget is a concern. I know how expensive they are. My main complaint is getting close to an object. I generally need to be seated while taking pictures, which can make it very difficult to get close to the objects I tend to take picture of ....people. For instance I was at a Christening yesterday, and altough the pictures are very good for crop/zoom, I feel like I am missing something by cropping so much. Any ideas.
Like I say, I don't retain very well these days. The simplier the better. Thanks. And thanks for all the beautiful pictures. I have enjoyed them soo much over the past year or so.
- Joined
- Oct 25, 2001
I won't harp about relying on full auto other than to say I hope that once you get more comofortable with your camera you try different approaches.
As far as a lens, my dad uses the Canon EF-S 15-85mm f/3.5-5.6 USM IS which is a nice consumer lens and offers a pretty decent range. It's a little soft at the 85mm end, but has a good build.
You mentioned cost being an issue, so I assume the L series is out, but if you could manage it, I use the Canon EF 24-105mm f/4 USM L IS as a walk around lens and am extremely happy with it.
As far as a lens, my dad uses the Canon EF-S 15-85mm f/3.5-5.6 USM IS which is a nice consumer lens and offers a pretty decent range. It's a little soft at the 85mm end, but has a good build.
You mentioned cost being an issue, so I assume the L series is out, but if you could manage it, I use the Canon EF 24-105mm f/4 USM L IS as a walk around lens and am extremely happy with it.
Frantasmic
*crickets* 2.0
- Joined
- Sep 5, 2005
55-250mm is good for the budget and gets pretty good shots, even indoors (if the lighting is pretty good).
I think you'd be a good candidate for the 100mm f2.0 lens.
the 24-105 f4 recommended above is also a good lens, but is in the $1000 range.
You may also want to look at the Sigma 50-150mm or the Sigma or Tamron 70-200mm f2.8
I think you'd be a good candidate for the 100mm f2.0 lens.
the 24-105 f4 recommended above is also a good lens, but is in the $1000 range.
You may also want to look at the Sigma 50-150mm or the Sigma or Tamron 70-200mm f2.8
mom2rtk
Invented the term "Characterpalooza"
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2008
If you've been using the automatic mode, you may or may not know this already. If you know it already, then just feel free to ignore me.
Different lenses have different maximum apertures available. The ones with the larger apertures available are a lot more expensive.
If you take a shot with your kit lens with very little zoom, or with the wide end of a typical (i.e. less expensive) telephoto lens, you will have a larger aperture available to you.
This matters because the larger your aperture, the less time your shutter needs to be open. For this reason, the more you zoom, the longer you need to have the shutter open, increasing your odds for camera shake and blurry shots.
For that reason, it is sometimes better to zoom out a bit and crop down than to just zoom in.
This is especially true indoors (without a flash, which might not reach anyway if you are zoomed in very far).
I think the sigma 50-150 might be a good choice for you. It is a constant f2.8 aperture and considered one of the large aperture "fast" lenses. I like this over the 70-200 options for indoor shots where the 70mm wider end might still be too tight for some shots.
Different lenses have different maximum apertures available. The ones with the larger apertures available are a lot more expensive.
If you take a shot with your kit lens with very little zoom, or with the wide end of a typical (i.e. less expensive) telephoto lens, you will have a larger aperture available to you.
This matters because the larger your aperture, the less time your shutter needs to be open. For this reason, the more you zoom, the longer you need to have the shutter open, increasing your odds for camera shake and blurry shots.
For that reason, it is sometimes better to zoom out a bit and crop down than to just zoom in.
This is especially true indoors (without a flash, which might not reach anyway if you are zoomed in very far).
I think the sigma 50-150 might be a good choice for you. It is a constant f2.8 aperture and considered one of the large aperture "fast" lenses. I like this over the 70-200 options for indoor shots where the 70mm wider end might still be too tight for some shots.
Thanks to you all! I'm writing down this info & hitting the local Ritz Camera to try some of these lens' out.
On a side note, MassJester we're neighbors. I worked in Weymouth for over 20 years. A local liquor store.
On a side note, MassJester we're neighbors. I worked in Weymouth for over 20 years. A local liquor store.
ChiSoxKeith
DIS Veteran
- Joined
- Mar 16, 2010
If you've never been there, try your local Calumet Photo....
www.calumetphoto.com
65 Bent Street
Cambridge, MA 02141
I've got two near me and both are just awesome. You can try out just about everything for your Canon there (even renting it). The Cambridge store even does in store classes. I'm going to my first one here in Chicago this weekend.
www.calumetphoto.com
65 Bent Street
Cambridge, MA 02141
I've got two near me and both are just awesome. You can try out just about everything for your Canon there (even renting it). The Cambridge store even does in store classes. I'm going to my first one here in Chicago this weekend.
- Joined
- Oct 25, 2001
Oh How very nice!
I live on the harbor across from the Hingham Shipyard--a lovely area, I think.
Keep us posted on your lens search
Oh How very nice!
I live on the harbor across from the Hingham Shipyard--a lovely area, I think.
Keep us posted on your lens search
Beautiful area. My Dad used to work at the old Shipyard.
Lots of improvements since then. I love the new shopping area near there.I'll let you know which lens I get. I'm hoping I can save my pennies to get one. Trying to squeeze in as many WDW trips AND get a lens...
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