Bonus Chapter 4: No Voodoo, Boo Hoo, or Doo-Doo in the Hoodoos. Dooby-Dooby-Doo.
We followed standard Rope Drop Protocol the next morning, getting up early, getting dressed and eating donuts and coffee in the room for breakfast. We actually were up early enough that we tried to walk out to the rim to take a peek at the sunrise, but unfortunately it was a dud. Low-lying clouds obscured the sunlight that morning. We did get to see this bird on the way back to the cabin, though.
That post appears to be a, uh, popular spot for birds.
Anyway, we were ready to start a hike at 7:00 a.m. All we had to do was walk a few hundred feet from our cabin to the trailhead at Sunset Point.
The main viewpoints at the amphitheater are Sunrise Point and Sunset Point. Sunrise is further to the north. The Queens Garden Trail descends from Sunrise Point, and the Navajo Loop Trail descends from Sunset Point. However,
as shown in this hiking map, there is a point where the trails link up. This combination of the Queens Garden/Navajo trail is one of the most popular hikes in the park.
For some inexplicable reason, the official Bryce Canyon map/newsletter they give you at the entrance recommends you start this hike at Sunrise Point and return via the Navajo Loop to Sunset Point. DO NOT DO THIS, unless you are also a fan of root canals and tax audits. Every guide book I read said to do the opposite, and in this case the guide books were correct. I’ll show you the reason why in a moment.
By now, the sun had broken through the clouds and was starting to cast some cool shadows around the hoodoos.
The start of the Navajo Loop trail is a steep descent through a section of Bryce Canyon known as Wall Street. It was given this name due to the massive hoodoos and narrow trails that take you in between them, reminiscent of walking between city skyscrapers. It’s also the reason why this should be the start, not the end, of your hike. Check out the drop, and then imagine having to climb back up this way.
Once again, including our hot model for scale:
Or, if you want to get really dramatic:
It was breathtaking to be able to wander amongst the rock formations towering above us. I loved squeezing through the narrow passageways. They even had tunnels cut in the rock at various points along the trail.
As you might imagine, it didn’t take long to make our way down the amphitheater floor.
No one had hiked down Wall Street with us—we’d had the whole place to ourselves. That was pretty special. When we reached the junction with the Queens Garden Trail, we met several other hikers. They had all started at Sunrise Point and were getting ready to ascend Wall Street. They asked us what it was like on that part of the trail.
For no points, how did we respond?
a) STEEP. Good luck, suckers! We’ll see you in about 8 hours when you finish.
b) Beautiful! Such an amazing hike. You’ll have a great time!
c) Disappointing. Not a single burger joint to be found.
d) Some combination of a, b, or c.
For her part, Julie thought it was hilarious to walk by several hikers in specialized gear—walking poles, Keen hiking boots, $90 hiking pants from LL Bean or REI, sun hats, lightweight backpacks…and then compare them to me, in a ball cap and blue jeans and carrying a Target bag with water bottles in it.
Hey, at least I started at the right trailhead.
Whatever. Just enjoy the photos. It really was an amazing walk.
Was the climb out difficult? Yes, but not horrible. We were fairly tired when we finally reached the rim again, but we both agreed it would have been much, much worse going in the other direction. You couldn’t beat the scenery. It was stunning in every direction. It instantly became one of our favorite hikes we’ve ever done.
Once we finished, we walked the Rim Trail back to our cabin, showered, and changed into shorts and t-shirts since the temperatures were rising. We wandered through the historic Bryce Canyon Lodge, spending some time and money in the gift shop so we could buy the affections of our children upon our return. We also sat for a bit in the lobby just to rest our legs. Sitting down is underrated.
We decided to drive a short distance down the road to Inspiration Point—we hadn’t stopped at this viewpoint on our first trip, so we figured we might as well cross it off the list. I immediately regretted this decision when we reached the parking lot, climbed out of the car, and saw a steep incline up to the viewpoint. I grumbled about the climb, but we eventually made it to the overlook. And yes, it was worth the climb. Here’s a panorama.
Along the way, we passed a guy jabbering on his cell phone. He talked loudly, non-stop, recounting his entire vacation to whomever was on the other end (and had probably put their phone down and walked away). He never stopped talking on his phone the whole time he was at the overlook. Dude. Nobody cares what you shot at the golf course. Put the phone down. Take in the view. Breathe.
Anyway, I was ready to head down and grab some food. But then Julie spotted yet another overlook, even farther up the near-vertical path. Maybe that was supposed to be the REAL Inspiration Point, she suggested. I wasn’t inspired. But she insisted.
Happy wife, happy life.
Calf muscles screaming in agony, I forced myself up the hill through sheer willpower. And I hate to admit this, but…she was right. It was stunning up there, and I’m glad she forced me to do it.
I could stare at that view all day.
We made our way down to the car. We drove back to the lodge and got some crappy pizza at the little pizza shop there. And then, reluctantly, we left Bryce Canyon behind. Every park in Utah is spectacular, but this one may well be my favorite. It’s either Bryce or Arches for me.
Coming Up Next: Our last piece of unfinished business.