The Learning Curve

[Pea-n-Me]

Time for a bump for new users...

And I'm adding this thread: Photos in gymnasiums - what settings

 

[revrob]

Thanks for bumping this for me! I didn't even know this thread existed! I'm definitely adding it to my subscription list, and gonna use every opportunity I have to go back and review what I've missed up to this point! Thanks so much!

 

[Pea-n-Me]

You see I added your thread. It was a good question. You ought to see some of my pictures from this winter's indoor baseball. But I did get better with time. Shooting in RAW you really don't need to worry about the WB too much as you're shooting, you can then concentrate on capturing the action (still quite challenging). Good luck with that. Once you figure out how to open your RAW files, you'll be good. Try using your camera's software, that's what I do. My system's not totally efficient yet, but I'm getting there.

 

[revrob]

I'm finding this thread so helpful! But I have a question that I didn't see listed on the first page, and it is one that has really caused me problems for a lot of years when I've taken pictures. I'm determined to get this right once and for all! I need for someone to talk to me about using FLASH! I have a bult in, pop-up flash (I guess most DSLRs do?). Anyway, when I'm inside, the flash usually fires automatically when needed. The problem is that the flash seems to produce AWFUL results! It seems that I get this really huge, dark shadow immediately behind the subject that I'm shooting. My DS had a band concert today and I didn't want to deal with this problem, so I thought I would pick up a flash diffuser. I couldn't find one. SO, I purchased an off brand flash that is made to work with my camera. Here's the question - is the pop-up flash good for anything? If not, why do they put the thing on the camera? Additionally, is a flash a flash a flash? Why does there seem to be such a variance in price among flashes?

 

[revrob]

I'm bumping hoping that someone can help with my question about using flash?

 

[Pea-n-Me]

I need for someone to talk to me about using FLASH! I have a bult in, pop-up flash (I guess most DSLRs do?). Anyway, when I'm inside, the flash usually fires automatically when needed. The problem is that the flash seems to produce AWFUL results! It seems that I get this really huge, dark shadow immediately behind the subject that I'm shooting. My DS had a band concert today and I didn't want to deal with this problem, so I thought I would pick up a flash diffuser. I couldn't find one. SO, I purchased an off brand flash that is made to work with my camera. Here's the question - is the pop-up flash good for anything? If not, why do they put the thing on the camera? Additionally, is a flash a flash a flash? Why does there seem to be such a variance in price among flashes?

Hoping someone can help revrob with his flash question.

Here's my take on it. For the most part, the in camera flashes aren't very useful. Probably best used rarely. If you have to use it, you can usually control the intensity and/or use a diffuser to help with harshness.

I don't know about other cameras, but I rarely shoot in Auto and so my flash only goes on if I want it to. When I do use Auto, the flash often wants to pop up. So try using another setting if you use Auto.

External flashes have more power (ie reach farther) and can move up and down so light is not directly aimed at subject. Mine also has a diffuser. (Actually, I seem to have lost it somewhere so I may have to buy a new one.)

I'll tell you - a pro photographer used my camera a few weeks ago and used her own cool little flash that I wish now I knew what it was. I believe it was "wireless"; very small. Anyone know what this was? The one I'd bought was kind of bulky and it sometimes wouldn't fire when I wanted it to. Probably just as well I lost it.

 

[Pea-n-Me]

Here's an article:

An Introduction to External Flash Units

 

[Angrypenguin]

I've always found the pop up flash unhelpful. I've disdained ever using it; the light is so harsh on subjects! I think the trick is to get an external flash and bounce it off ceilings/walls, so the light looks more natural. I just recently got a Canon 430 EXii for my birthday, so I'll let you guys know how it goes!

BTW, this is a great thread. I didn't even know it existed.

 

[JoeDif]

The pop up camera flashes are useful for outdoors fill in flash to get rid of shadows under eyes and noses. That's probably about the only thing they are good for. I hate using mine indoors!!

 

[MKhead72]

Hello everyone !! Recent Nikon D80 purchase, after moving up from point and shoot, and WOW !! what a difference. Have read this entire thread and have really enjoyed it. Been confused at some points, and still confused at other points, but still determined to learn. I am subscribing to the thread and will surely be asking questions, as they come to me. Thanks everyone for their input! .

 

[WillowBelle]

I just stumbled upon this thread also and am subscribing . Now to find the time to go through all the other posts to learn how to take better pictures!!!

 

[Pea-n-Me]

Welcome, guys. Please feel free to discuss whatever comes to mind. Maybe we can get this moving again...

 

[boBQuincy]

I have been trying a lot of HDRs lately and there is quite a a learning curve there. I won't go into the processing of HDRs since that is an aesthetic choice but taking the three (or more) exposures can take a lot of effort as well. We must make decisions on how many exposures to take and how far apart to space them, partly depending on what the lighting conditions are.

I recently photographed a black locomotive against a bright sky, that required at least five exposures spaced 2 stops apart, and seven might have been even better. Some of the HDR books have a good explanation of how to determine exposure for HDR but the simple explanation is our darkest frame should have no white pixels and our lightest frame should have no black pixels. Then we have a full range HDR capture sequence.

 

[MKhead72]

I have a question..... living in FL. we get some really awesome lightening displays from storms. I know I would have to set my shutter speed to bulb, and I am pretty confident f/3.3-5.6 would really make the bolts pop. My question is, should I try to configure the wb or leave it on auto ? And with a tripod should i use a remote shutter release, or try by hand ? TIA

 

[WillowBelle]

If it were me trying to photograph lightning, I would leave the WB set to auto and definately use a shutter release. I would get so excited I would probably shake the camera hitting the button. Of course, I have never shot lightning and could be completely incorrect. Just telling you what I would do if a lightning storm came up.

 

[Pea-n-Me]

I agree with the shutter release, definitely. And if your camera has image stabilization, turn it off if you use a tripod as it can work against it and have the opposite effect. (This concept was explained in one of Mark Barbieri's articles which are linked here, check index.) I'd probably use Auto WB as well. If you shoot in RAW, you can easily change it later on.

MKhead, I hope we get to see some of your pictures!

 

[MM_Bound]

I'm finding this thread so helpful! But I have a question that I didn't see listed on the first page, and it is one that has really caused me problems for a lot of years when I've taken pictures. I'm determined to get this right once and for all! I need for someone to talk to me about using FLASH! I have a bult in, pop-up flash (I guess most DSLRs do?). Anyway, when I'm inside, the flash usually fires automatically when needed. The problem is that the flash seems to produce AWFUL results! It seems that I get this really huge, dark shadow immediately behind the subject that I'm shooting. My DS had a band concert today and I didn't want to deal with this problem, so I thought I would pick up a flash diffuser. I couldn't find one. SO, I purchased an off brand flash that is made to work with my camera. Here's the question - is the pop-up flash good for anything? If not, why do they put the thing on the camera? Additionally, is a flash a flash a flash? Why does there seem to be such a variance in price among flashes?

Gary Fong sells a diffuser for a pop-up flash called the puffer. It works well for indoor shots. I have it and use it for since I don't have the budget for a external flash right now. It does soften the light well, and helps to remove harsh shadows. I am pleased with it.

 

[MKhead72]

Well while I'm waiting for the thunderstorms to start ( has been very dry lately ) so I can try my hand at lightening.... we are visiting WDW next weekend. Went today to our local camera shop and purchased a Nikkor 70-300mm f/4-5.6 lens.... It's my second lens and I really enjoy it ! But now I have a question,.... For night shots of say the entrance to tomorrow land with the bright lights, what would you say I should try my settings at? I have been practicing tonight with street lights, but I know the lights are different there. Any tips ??

 

[Pea-n-Me]

For night shots of say the entrance to tomorrow land with the bright lights, what would you say I should try my settings at? I have been practicing tonight with street lights, but I know the lights are different there. Any tips ??

Hoping someone can answer MKhead's question with specifics on settings.

One thing I would suggest would be to use a stabilizer like a tripod or gorillapod.

 

[boBQuincy]

For night shots of say the entrance to tomorrow land with the bright lights, what would you say I should try my settings at? I have been practicing tonight with street lights, but I know the lights are different there. Any tips ??

One easy way to handle this is to bracket the exposure. Set the camera for AEB (Canon) with +/- 2 stops and take three exposures in P or Av mode. One of the exposures should be pretty good. After that you can further tweak the exposure up to 2 stops with compensation.

Another benefit is you should have an underexposed image which you can use to copy and paste the actual light sources (which are probably blown out in the best overall exposure).