The ABCs of Greece & Italy! X, Y, and Z, and that Friends is THE END!!! :) See you in Asia and Australia, Join Me THERE!!

[Steppesister]

One must take one's time when setting out on a million mile walk. At an average pace of 3mph and an average of 6 hours/day... it's gonna take over 150 years. No sense in rushing.

Sometimes on the way home it felt precisely that long.

Huh. I usually hop into a popping café

Hop, Pop, Saunter, Swagger....

You know it's quirky if it's got an outdoor chandelier.

100%

I mean who does that?! So cool!

How did you find that out?!?!?

Because she actually walked us TO a place we could get one- she went out of her way to help us. Crazy, eh?

Are you sure? Could've sworn it was Pope Fifthtus VI

No, I'm definitely not sure. I'm just going by what the internet says, so assuming it's accurate. Because everything on there is true.

Wait... what?

I'm just saying that the last photo wasn't part of the Four, but I did take it that day. I just have no idea where.

To this day, the bones of the disrespectful tourists are on display for all to see, serving as a warning for all future visitors. Cruel, but effective.

That works. Probably good for a few other modern day applications....

Gelato makes up for a lot of disappointment.

It certainly does!

I think it's a rule. Pretty sure you have to sign a contract saying that you will go, when visiting Rome.

I wonder which is the more visited: The Colosseum or this one.

How come your (frequent) wrong turns end up in happy accidents? My wrong turns usually wind up with my car in a ditch or something.

OH dear! You might need to some driving lessons....

This is a truism. I don't think even rope drop would save this one. Pretty sure I saw a webpage about most overrated attractions and or disappointing attractions and that was one of them. I'd still go see it, having never been, but...

Yeah, it actually kind of is. Maybe in the middle of winter on a really cold day? Who knows.

...that you know of.

correct.

I'm not sure whether to be impressed or horrified.

Exactly. Just wowza!

 

[pkondz]

And nowadays, cameras, like every other "appliance" is simply built to be replaced, not fixed. UGH.

Unfortunately...

But, but... coffee is so delectible!

Probably, but I will laugh at her if she tries to hike around Uluru with them on.

And leave her in your dust.

I wondered if anyone would bite at that. I can always count on you!

I'm getting predictable!

I know!! I think a ton of it was pilfered for other projects in Rome and was looted along the way as well. I know some was taken for WW2?

That's both interesting... and horrible.

Sometimes on the way home it felt precisely that long.

Because she actually walked us TO a place we could get one- she went out of her way to help us. Crazy, eh?

Really! That's pretty nice.

No, I'm definitely not sure. I'm just going by what the internet says, so assuming it's accurate. Because everything on there is true.

I wonder which is the more visited: The Colosseum or this one.

Huh. That's a very good question.

OH dear! You might need to some driving lessons....

It's the GPS's fault.
"Turn right, now"
But there's no road!
"Turn right, NOW"
I don't see a road!!
"TURN RIGHT.... NOW!"
Okay! Okay!

<swerve>

<crash>

 

[Wood Nymph]

From there, Coppede wasn’t hard to find. The ENORMOUS chandelier overhanging the decorative, arched entrance stood sentinel to this entirely quirky couple of city blocks. Once inside, it was immediately apparent that this was a neighborhood that required money.

That was a beautiful neighborhood. It looks like the perfect blend of history and modern living. But it is probably very expensive, too.

The fact that there is art made from human bones just adds a whole other layer of amazing. There was zero macabre or weird vibe or anything distasteful about it. It was respectful and actually incredibly interesting. If you're in Rome, I'd highly recommend this stop!

It seems a little creepy to me.

Most people know about the Changing of the Guard in London. And Greece. And a lot of other big Capitol cities. Who knew that Rome has one too!! I sure didn’t; but our wrong turn took us to the Palazzo del Quirinale and it was timed perfectly as the Changing of the Guard was happening!

You had a couple of lucky instances on this day. I guess that is the benefit of not being too scheduled.

Snap, snap and off we went. No coin toss; no wishing. It was just far too people-y for us.

Do they still allow people to throw a coin in the fountain?

 

[Steppesister]

That was a beautiful neighborhood. It looks like the perfect blend of history and modern living. But it is probably very expensive, too.

I loved strolling through it. The art was really fun!

It seems a little creepy to me.

I guess it is at some level, but at least for me it tipped to the neat. Maybe it's my medical mindset. I kept looking at each grouping of "picture" thinking, "Wow, what a creative way to use vertebrae or femurs!"

You had a couple of lucky instances on this day. I guess that is the benefit of not being too scheduled.

We sure did and you're right! That's why I like to build my own itineraries with plenty of time here or there. And if I arrive at a place that isn't what I'd hoped or not my cup of tea, I can jet out and spend more time at the next one

Do they still allow people to throw a coin in the fountain?

Yes, they do. In fact, I just saw a little video about how they collect about 1.5 million $ every year and give it to charity.

 

[Steppesister]

And leave her in your dust.

It's the GPS's fault.
"Turn right, now"
But there's no road!
"Turn right, NOW"
I don't see a road!!
"TURN RIGHT.... NOW!"
Okay! Okay!

<swerve>

<crash>

That happened at least twice coming up. Not the crashing, but close, part.

 

[pkondz]

That happened at least twice coming up. Not the crashing, but close, part.

 

[irene_dsc]

Our first destination of the day involved a long walk to the Coppede Neighbourhood about an hour away. When I began researching this trip like… 3, years ago, (no, I’m not kidding; remember, it was postponed 2 years for Covid and other life events) I googled a LOT about off-the-beaten-path places to visit. Coppede came up a few times and it looked like a fun place to head for some photos.

Ooh - that was cool! I don't remember ever seeing any photos of that neighborhood, and it is so very different from anything else I saw in Rome!

 

[Steppesister]

O is for: Onward to Tuscany!​

Bright and early, we checked out of our super, uber neato, keen Airbnb with the little underground museum and said goodbye to our hosts. Yes, they stopped by to call a taxi for us and see us off. They were just so nice!

The taxi took us to the very north end of town where I’d arranged for our rental car pickup. I chose that location specifically because it was the furthest out of town... which meant the least amount of driving in urban Rome. The thought of that terrified me more than spiders in the shower do.

I thought this was a super pretty church and snapped this photo somewhere along the way. (Sorry, I don't remember if our taxi stopped or what church it is.)

​

We had to wait a little bit for the agent to be done servicing the customer before us, so took the time to grab a latte and pastry next door.

Of course.


Fueled up with caffeine and with our not-so-sporty, manual trannie little Fiat Panda we were set to go.


Aaaad go!



Aaaaaaaaaaaaaand...... GO.......!



go....????



How the f do you shift gears?! Yes, I stalled it twice getting out of the parking lot once I figured out how to make it go at all. Yes, beads of sweat formed on my quivering brow. The look of terror on Anara’s face would have been comical had it not been legit. Don't worry, it quickly changed to hysterical, manical laughing at her inept mother.

(To which I retorted back: "I'd love to watch YOU drive a stick, Girlfriend!")

(Just wait until next month when she gets to be the passenger again as I learn to drive on the left in Australia! )


Ok, Ok I can do this….

​

And I did. I actually picked up re-learning the stick and got pretty dang good by Day 2. As you shall see… But first let's get on the highway and head north! Zoomy-zoom!!




All of my fears were absolutely unfounded. The highways are really nice and fairly well marked. Over the next 3 days we’d only have minimal issues with navigation with one particularly hilarious episode on day 3, but that’s getting ahead of myself. For now, let's get to our first destination- Bagni San Filippo! It’s locally nicknamed The White Whale for its impressive calcium formation.

Passing through some of the most gorgeous countryside in all the world the miles were easy to drive. The warm colors of harvested fields of grains, vineyards turned golden hues, contrasted perfectly with the patchwork of areas still green. Every dozen or so miles we’d pass another small hilltop village standing timelessly over the view it has enjoyed for hundreds of years. Had time not been our enemy, we’d have stopped at every single one. I did pull off the road a few times however for a few panoramic shots and to simply soak in the spectacular Tuscan landscape.

​

Bagni San Filippo wasn’t too far off the beaten path, but just enough so that it wasn’t absolutely choked with other visitors like Saturnia Hot Springs can be. On this warm, late Autumn day only a few dozen fellow soakers were enjoying the pools. We parked the car, paid the nominal parking fee, and walked the short ¼ mile or so down to the springs and gingerly made our way into the perfect spot just far enough away from the source that it was not too hot and not too cold. Just a few feet one way or the other and you could be either scalding or freezing!

And for the next hour and a half or so, we both enjoyed just relaxing in the surprisingly not-too-stinky hot pools moving to other spots now and then. There was NOTHING developed about this place (except the parking meters!). No manmade pools, no picnic amenities (there were some tables and a couple local vendors uphill a bit), not even any trashcans. Even more shockingly, there was no trash either. The only negative thing I saw here were a few folks who seemed to not regard the delicacy of the formations and chose to climb up on them. That made me a bit sad knowing these yay-hoos really didn’t care about preserving the natural beauty of such a neat place. It was such an absolutely wonderful photographer's dream; sadly, I just couldn't do it justice with a cell phone. I didn't dare take a nice camera down there!

​

We really hated to leave the hot springs but still had at least 2 more stops planned before arriving at our Airbnb for the night and it was already past noon! Was it worth the stop? 100% absolutely! I’d highly recommend taking a couple of hours to soak away your cares if you’re ever in Tuscany.

 

[Steppesister]

Ooh - that was cool! I don't remember ever seeing any photos of that neighborhood, and it is so very different from anything else I saw in Rome!

Yes, very eclectic in a very different sort of artsy way!

 

[Wood Nymph]

I thought this was a super pretty church and snapped this photo somewhere along the way. (Sorry, I don't remember if our taxi stopped or what church it is.)

The church is beautiful and very clean. It looks like it was recently restored to its original condition.

And I did. I actually picked up re-learning the stick and got pretty dang good by Day 2.

Have you driven a stick in the past? I would think it would be tricky to drive one without prior experience. Did they have any rental cars with automatic transmission? I would think that there would be enough of a market for automatic transmissions that they would provide them.

It was such an absolutely wonderful photographer's dream;

Tuscany looks beautiful. Is that why you chose to rent a car for this portion of your trip?
The hot springs look very delicate. I'm surprised that people can just crawl around them without any restriction.

 

[pkondz]

Yes, they stopped by to call a taxi for us and see us off. They were just so nice!

Always makes such a difference when you have kind, friendly people as hosts.

The taxi took us to the very north end of town where I’d arranged for our rental car pickup. I chose that location specifically because it was the furthest out of town... which meant the least amount of driving in urban Rome.

That's smart. Good idea.

The thought of that terrified me more than spiders in the shower do.

What have you got against clean spiders??

I thought this was a super pretty church

Very nice. I like it.

took the time to grab a latte and pastry next door.

Of course.

How the f do you shift gears?!

The look of terror on Anara’s face would have been comical had it not been legit. Don't worry, it quickly changed to hysterical, manical laughing at her inept mother.

(To which I retorted back: "I'd love to watch YOU drive a stick, Girlfriend!")

I always think of a manual transmission as a built in theft deterrent.

(Just wait until next month when she gets to be the passenger again as I learn to drive on the left in Australia! )

Passing through some of the most gorgeous countryside in all the world

That sure helps pass the time.

On this warm, late Autumn day only a few dozen fellow soakers were enjoying the pools.

My first thought was "few dozen? That sounds like a lot." But then I thought it sounded a lot better than "few hundreds".

Just a few feet one way or the other and you could be either scalding or freezing!

Huh!

Even more shockingly, there was no trash either.

I wonder if that's because they have more respect or more efficient trash removal services.

The only negative thing I saw here were a few folks who seemed to not regard the delicacy of the formations and chose to climb up on them. That made me a bit sad knowing these yay-hoos really didn’t care about preserving the natural beauty of such a neat place.

Was it particularly fragile? Or just more of a "over time that sort of behaviour will wreck it"?

It does kinda look like a white whale.

 

[missjackiemcg]

If your cell phone pictures don't do the springs area justice, I can't even imagine how gorgeous your big camera pics would be! These are simply stunning--especially love the one where you can see the reflection of the trees in the water. So gorgeous.

 

[KathyM2]

(To which I retorted back: "I'd love to watch YOU drive a stick, Girlfriend!")

(Just wait until next month when she gets to be the passenger again as I learn to drive on the left in Australia! )

This made me laugh because I remember having this exact scenario when I went to Hungary with my mom about thirty years ago!! She was driving and I was laughing yet scared at the same time. You are a brave woman!!

 

[Steppesister]

P is for Pienza and Beyond!

​

P is for pizza, and pasta, and parmesan, but it’s also for the lovely little villages of Pienza, Pistoia, and Petronagno. While I’ll have to save Pistoia and Petrognagno until the next update, let’s set off now from Bagni San Felippo, and head for Pienza.

Vroom, vroom!!!

By now I was getting pretty zippy in our not-so-zippy FiatPandaExpress and taking the highways, and now smaller roads, like a boss. Which was good, because the challenges of driving a stick shift in Tuscany is not for wienies.

The next stop on today’s agenda was the town of Pienza, about 2 ½ hours north of Rome. We had no aim other than to just walk about and soak up the atmosphere of the Tuscan charm. And find a bathroom to use. It’d been a long time since we used the hot springs.


Just kidding, just kidding.



Maybe.


Pienza was lovely. I was becoming totally convinced that the all the hype about the Tuscan charm was indeed true. These villages are, in fact, old and great pains are taken, it seems, to keep the original authenticity intact. There was no trash strewn about, no graffiti (thank you, Naples, you gave us more than our fill of that), and no loitering gang bangers. In fact, there were hardly even any tourists either which made for some exquisite photo opps. Trust me on this: Late Fall is definitely the time to visit Tuscany; the weather is still perfect, kids are back in school, prices are now cheaper being off-season, and most places are still open. “Most” is a very important qualifier….

​

We wandered around for an hour or two popping into shops now and then. My photos show no evidence of any lunch, so we must have passed it up or had car snacks. My memory is crap now so let’s just go with the No Lunch Theory.

(This screams Via Napoli at EPCOT, no?)

​

Next, we drove a very short ways to Montepulciano, home of the world-famous Nobile wine. This is ground zero, Friends, for those amazing Tuscan wines. Did I try any in Montepulciano? No, but I would at dinner later on in San Gimignano.

​

*** Wine Talk, Feel Free to Skip***

A quick mini-lesson: The Montepulciano is a variety of GRAPE, and wine from this grape is grown all over the place, from Texas to Australia to, of course, Italy. But the “Vino Nobile di Montepulciano” is altogether different and made from mostly Sangiovese grapes and ONLY made in or around Montepulciano and had the DCOG designation. I wanted to try the Nobile while I was actually WHERE it is made. No, I’m really NOT a wine snob, but had heard of it and thought I should drink some since I was right there!

<steps off very low wine soapbox>

So, what DID we do in Montepulciano? We visited a church (shocking, I know) and did a bunch more walking around. LOL!

​

I LOVED this invitation to be respectful inside the church. It was a good reminder to turn off the phones so others could worship should they be there to do so.

​

The life-sized Nativity was also really neat. It was carved and remains here all year.

​

I have NO idea what this might have said, or what language it even is, but I sure thought it and the stone were incredibly cool! I can’t even imagine how old it must have been!

​

It was here that we also found a whimsical piece of art of Pulcinella. "Pulcinella embodies the Neapolitan plebians, the simplest man who occupies the bottom place on the social scale, the man who, although aware of his problems, always manages to come out of them with a smile. Pulcinella represents the soul of the people and its primitive instincts."- wiki

​

Continued in next post...

 

[Steppesister]

Continued from previous post....

Taking our leave from Montepulciano, we made our way to our stop for the night- San Gimignano. It was obvious by now we’d not be arriving before dark which was our goal. Wish us luck.

​

Pulling into town, we spent some stressful and somewhat grouchy and tense moments trying to find parking. We did and paid, then contacted our Airbnb hostess to help guide us to where we needed to be. Yes, we had gps and Google maps, but if you’ve ever been to a small >Tuscan village…. Well…

Turns out after she gave us very clear and specific directions to the place, we still took the long way around. The roar of our bags clacking on the stone streets alerted the entire 3 adjacent districts of our arrival. The only way we found it was our hostess yelling across town…. IT’S OVER HERE….!!!!!!!

​

Okay, it wasn’t quite that bad but what should have taken us 4 minutes from the car, took us 30. Because it was dark. And it was all uphill. And there are 4,402,023 little turns and winding alleys there. And it was dark. Finally, we were safely in our cozy little room inside a much bigger apartment which had a common area, open kitchen, and small balcony. Zero of which we used. It was very well decorated and certainly comfortable enough. Here are the few photos I took:

(Hey! I just saw the real Birth of Venus in real life!)

(It was all cutely decorated for Halloween. YAY!!)​

We’d arrived much later than we’d hoped and were starved and exhausted. Luckily, there are also 4,402,023 cafes and restaurants to choose from so, after stowing our bags, we walked until we found something that looked good. It was certainly busy enough and it had fresh pasta hanging at the entrance, so it had to be right?

​

Because we were starved, we naturally over-ordered. Which is fine, we enjoyed our leftover cheeses over the next days.

​

I did in fact order some Nobile and enjoyed it quite a lot, thank you very much. I don’t know when I’ll ever get another $5 glass of Nobile from Montepulciano. This one was like $4,500.

​

And here’s where a bit of grief happened. Tuscany is also known for its wild boar. Every year there’s a wild boar hunt, it’s big sport, quite the community thing. And as they say, when in Rome…. Or Tuscany as the case may be. No, I didn’t go on a wild boar hunt. (Wouldn't THAT make quite a trip report!!) But I did order some. I’m an “adventurous eater” and thought I'd really enjoy this.


I did not.


It was just a bit too much on the gamey side of flavor for me and while I did eat until I was full, I wouldn’t order it again. I washed down my sorrow with another sip of Nobile. Anara, on the other hand, loved her Bolognese and ate very bite. Except the one I tried. It was her turn to have the superior meal. Ya win some, ya lose some.

(The Wild Boar Pasta)

(The better Bolognese)​

Finding our way back to the Airbnb was just as ridiculous as the first time we looked for it on our way into town. We should have channeled our inner Hansel and Gretel, but instead pulled a Kingston Trio and became the (folks) who (almost) never returned.

It was still dark.


We both slept pretty well as I recall, and I was up far earlier than she was. Stay tuned for Day 2 in Tuscany…

​

 

[rdkeim]

What lovely pictures! Love the random cats So nice you could get out of the bigger more touristy areas and really "see" Italy. Getting yourself around comes with it's struggles but so worth it. You and your daughter will always have these memories to talk and laugh about. Boar, no thank you but the wine sounds good. Looking forward to the next chapter!

 

[pkondz]

P is for pizza, and pasta, and parmesan, but it’s also for the lovely little villages of Pienza, Pistoia, and Petronagno.

Oh pshaw... please...

By now I was getting pretty zippy in our not-so-zippy FiatPandaExpress

and taking the highways, and now smaller roads, like a boss.

Running little ol' ladies off the road left and right.

And find a bathroom to use. It’d been a long time since we used the hot springs.


Just kidding, just kidding.



Maybe.

I was becoming totally convinced that the all the hype about the Tuscan charm was indeed true.

I love that. Maybe some day I'll see it for myself.

no graffiti (thank you, Naples, you gave us more than our fill of that)

In fact, there were hardly even any tourists either which made for some exquisite photo opps.

Even better!

and most places are still open. “Most” is a very important qualifier….

Hmmm... I sense foreshadowing here...

My photos show no evidence of any lunch, so we must have passed it up

Better than bringing it up.

really like these.

(This screams Via Napoli at EPCOT, no?)

Nope. At least not for me. Then again, it's been a while, so...

Next, we drove a very short ways to Montepulciano, home of the world-famous Nobile wine. This is ground zero, Friends, for those amazing Tuscan wines. Did I try any in Montepulciano? No

Wax poetic about it and then... "Nah, I'm good."

The Montepulciano is a variety of GRAPE, and wine from this grape is grown all over the place, from Texas to Australia to, of course, Italy.

Huh. I've never heard of it. Then again, I don't drink much wine, anyway.

But the “Vino Nobile di Montepulciano” is altogether different and made from mostly Sangiovese grapes and ONLY made in or around Montepulciano

Oh! So like if it isn't from Champagne, it's just sparkling wine.

<steps off very low wine soapbox>

So, what DID we do in Montepulciano? We visited a church (shocking, I know) and did a bunch more walking around. LOL!

When in Montepulciano...

I LOVED this invitation to be respectful inside the church. It was a good reminder to turn off the phones so others could worship should they be there to do so.

I'm not seeing a phone comment there? Or are you reading between the lines?

The life-sized Nativity

!!

I have NO idea what this might have said, or what language it even is, but I sure thought it and the stone were incredibly cool!

It's in old Latin. Says "All welcome, even centaurs. Try the soup."

You're welcome.

It was here that we also found a whimsical piece of art of Pulcinella.

I like that.

Pulling into town, we spent some stressful and somewhat grouchy and tense moments trying to find parking.

Uh, oh....
"Moooommmmm! Where is it????"
"I don't know! Stop asking me!!"
"Moooooommmmmm!!!!"

The roar of our bags clacking on the stone streets alerted the entire 3 adjacent districts of our arrival.

Oh, yes. Familiar with that. Roller suitcases are not designed for old cobblestones.

The only way we found it was our hostess yelling across town…. IT’S OVER HERE….!!!!!!!

Okay, it wasn’t quite that bad but what should have taken us 4 minutes from the car, took us 30. Because it was dark. And it was all uphill. And there are 4,402,023 little turns and winding alleys there. And it was dark.

From your description, surprised you found it at all!

Finally, we were safely in our cozy little room inside a much bigger apartment which had a common area, open kitchen, and small balcony. Zero of which we used.

(It was all cutely decorated for Halloween. YAY!!)

Luckily, there are also 4,402,023 cafes and restaurants to choose from

Sure. One for each alley. Makes sense.

It was certainly busy enough and it had fresh pasta hanging at the entrance, so it had to be right?

That should be a good sign. And... sounds like the food was good (if a bit on the gamey side for you.)

Because we were starved, we naturally over-ordered. Which is fine, we enjoyed our leftover cheeses over the next days.

That board looks really good.

No, I didn’t go on a wild boar hunt. (Wouldn't THAT make quite a trip report!!)

Yes!!!

I’m an “adventurous eater” and thought I'd really enjoy this.


I did not.

Oh dear.

Anara, on the other hand, loved her Bolognese and ate very bite.

Both look good. I've never had a problem with game meats... I wonder if my reaction would've been different.

 

[Wood Nymph]

I probably would have been tempted to try the wild boar, too, because of its fame. But Anara's meal did look better.

 

[missjackiemcg]

I really couldn't get into Vanishing Acts or The Tenth Circle. I feel like I either absolutely LOVE Jodi Picoult's books, or find them over-indulgent, haha!

(This screams Via Napoli at EPCOT, no?)

I thought that exact same thing before I even saw your caption!!!!

I’m an “adventurous eater” and thought I'd really enjoy this.


I did not.

Oh, dear. At least you can say you tried it!! I wouldn't have been adventurous enough to even try.

 

[Steppesister]

The church is beautiful and very clean. It looks like it was recently restored to its original condition.

I think so too maybe. I wish I had the foggiest clue where it even is.

Have you driven a stick in the past? I would think it would be tricky to drive one without prior experience. Did they have any rental cars with automatic transmission? I would think that there would be enough of a market for automatic transmissions that they would provide them.

I have. I learned on a stick back in the Bronze Age... on hills no less. My dad thought I should learn in the hardest conditions and then I'd be an expert. LOL!! Until I hit an overhanging tree branch and tore off the car's antenna. I think automatics are pretty hard to come by in Europe without paying out the nose. I didn't look too hard because the price was right for sticks and I know how.

Tuscany looks beautiful. Is that why you chose to rent a car for this portion of your trip?
The hot springs look very delicate. I'm surprised that people can just crawl around them without any restriction.

I had read on many, many blogs that this is really the only way to do Tuscany if you want to see more than 1 or 2 towns. The bus service is slow or non-existent as well as they train service. Most of them don't have a station at all. I wanted to get a good "grand tour" of the area so that should I ever go back, I'd know where I liked it most.

Yes, they were pretty delicate. It didn't take much to break little pieces off so we were were pretty careful to tread lightly. I like the saying, "Leave no trace".