July 20th: We Sure Aren't on ABD Anymore...
Several years ago we had stopped over in Iceland on the way home over new years' and only had a few nights in winter to explore... which meant we did not get very far at all. Our only real goal had been to see the lights if possible (check), and we traveled only as far as Víkurfjara to the south east back then. This time we did some research on things to do in the summer time and very quickly discovered a tour to see Arctic foxes up in the westfjords. The nature reserve there has been uninhabited since 1952 and reachable only by ferry - its name is Hornstrandir. It is known for bird cliffs, being able to hike for days and see no one else... and arctic foxes.
To be honest... this is quite literally the only reason we went there specifically, and we were a little dubious. The tour was expensive, has very little information about it, and the reviews are very middle ground. All we really knew is we MIGHT see foxes, we would definitely have to take a long ferry ride each way, and even though we found a couple of different sites selling the tour we were fairly certain there was really only one option. We thought about trying to do it on our own, but knew the guides knew where the foxes are, and we very worried about using the ferry, as the site for that was not intuitive and it is not on a strict schedule. It is so not on a schedule that two days beforehand the tour company - Borea Adventures - sent us an email letting us know the 9am pickup would now be 8am, and could we please be there at 7:45am? On the day of as we waited for the ferry we just kind of waited and waited for it to show, also. We knew around when it would be there, but until the ferry rounded the corner and we were within radio distance it could be anytime. Sorry, I'm getting ahead of myself.
We woke up very early indeed to shower, and make the short drive over to Ísafjörður with a quick stop for coffee and a pastry. Their office is a couple blocks away and while they do have a little parking lot behind it seems it is open to everyone and we were very lucky to grab the last possible spot. Had we known, we would have just parked at the dock, but their instructions say the office is here. We knocked on the door only to be told to head down that way anyway... we also saw this sign and were happy we'd booked ahead of time!
Once we got to the dock we were able to check in and they did have a restroom available there if anyone needed one. In addition to our group of ten there were a couple of other tours running to differnet places as well that also use the ferry. We had to fill out a liability waiver, met our guide for the day - a UK girl just out of college - and then were allowed to board. The ferry has room to walk around the ship, and a good amount of seating but they do take on more passengers than there are seats, just FYI! Not to worry on the way out though - most wanted to be standing outside to enjoy the scenery. We were lucky enough to be circled by puffins fishing for their breakfasts.
We also scored in that we were the first stop, so after about an hour we were collecting our belongings and ashore! The dock on this side is MUCH smaller... they replaced it recently with a floating one but some were muttering that they did not think it would last very long with the harsh winters. There was a line of filmographers waiting to board here with lots of equipment - I would not be surprised if they were the reason we had to move our departure up an hour.
Once on shore we were immediately besetted upon by flies. They did not seem to bite... much... but they did really enjoy being on our faces and necks. They were fierce and numerous enough that no one dallied long enough to read the informational signs... we booked it! As we left the beach and walked towards the farmhouse, which would be our base for the day, the flies did get much better. There was another restroom here for anyone who needed one, and we were allowed to leave any items we did not want to hike with as well. The farmhouse was the old doctor's residence, and provides a place to rest and get a quick meal for the campers and hikers in the area.
After everyone was situated it was time to head out! I kept my eyes peeled for any animals, but mostly foxes, and there were certainly signs they were around. We found some scat, some footprints along the shore, and leftovers of some of their meals. The scenery here was just lovely as well - we wound our way for a few miles.
By this point we could tell our guide was either ambivalent or green... we mostly chatted with the other guests. She would point out a plant or two, but mostly just led the way, and even admitted she was getting in 'the zone' and didn't notice when folks were falling behind. I think she may have been a little disappointed in our pace as we clearly did not get as far up the cliffs as she would have liked before someone misstepped and fell into mud and needed a breather. Thankfully this time it was not me!!
On the way back she asked if we would rather go back the way we came, or cut through the vegetation back to the house. The way she asked made it sound like the latter would be a better way to go - and I hadn't seen foxes yet anyway so I was keen on getting a different view - so into the brush we went! And it went fine... at first. She had said she would stick to the dry areas but it very soon became apparent that she meant try to. We all assumed there would be a few wet spots as there had been on the hike so far but instead we found ourselves up to our ankles in water. Anyone who did not have tall shoes was a goner and we soon discovered that Kyle's shoes were leaking as well. Which, to be fair, was not her fault. No one was very amused though as she once again was far ahead of us all slowly picking our way behind her - there was much grumbling, and not only from us. It was extra irksome having just left ABD where the guides really have a knack for watching out for you. I just can't seem them taking a group through a field without the foresight of what would happen next... we honestly had assumed she would not march us into a marsh. But march she did... Once we were back at the farm house a few people changed socks if they had them and laid their shoes out in the sun to try and dry as best they could.
Inside the house was pretty neat, as it had some old timey doctor tools and bottles and things decorating the space. Though there were many tables the guide had us all sit outside for a snack of a crepe-like pancake and coffee. That was it for lunch... ^^; We had been prepared for a very small meal based on reviews we had read and had brought more food, but it was honestly enough since we'd had pastries just a few hours prior.
By now the sun was starting to break through the clouds and we started out on hike #2 the other way along the shoreline towards an old whaling station. Here saw several seals sunning themselves on rocks and continues to keep our eyes peeled for foxes.
This afternoon hike was MUCH easier and more pleasant than the morning one, if only because we had a definted landmark we were headed to. At least that always helps ME on hikes, haha! Before I knew it we had arrived and went closer for a better look.
Eventually our guide would tell us a tiny bit of the history of the place - just that it was a whaling station, then a cannery for herring, and then they used that up too before abandoning it - but that had to wait.
Do you see? I admit we did not - the guide had to show us - but we had no idea they would be here and yet she did, the cheater.
Someone found a sun spot...!
She said there were five cubs though we only spotted two or three... this little cutie woke up before too long and retreated further into the rubble, so we aren't sure if one we spotted later was the same or another one.
This one came out from a cement block while the other was snoozing so it was definitely two at least! Look at that little tail! <3
I have zillions more pictures as we stayed here quite a long time.. long enough for even I to get a little antsy and walk all around the ruins. Our guide sat down by the shore and occassionally would tell people who wandered by her we might want to back off from them as Mom and Dad hadn't shown up and may be stressed out. But she didn't actually make any moves to leave. I sat for a bit and grew bored and kept wandering around, eventually making my way back to them as there was nothing else to do. After a very long time, we hiked back out the way we had come to the farmhouse.
Once there, even though some of us had asked about sitting inside, we sat at the same table outside so I never did get much chance to look at everything inside the house. They served a very delicious fish stew, and hearty brown bread with lots of butter which wasn't a big meal, but was very good and hit the spot. It was the best one I'd had, and I did keep an eye out for other versions over the next couple days but didn't find any to beat it. Or maybe that is the hiking talking. After dinner we sat... and sat... and sat. Eventually some folk who knew our guide came by and she went to talk to them instead.
At around 5:15pm we finally saw the ferry round the corner and packed up to head to the dock. The tide had changed by now, so we were not able to use the actual dock at all and had to tender to the ferry instead in small groups which took quite awhile. Once onboard we managed to find seats back at the table where we'd sat on the way out and I admit I had hoped we were the last stop as the boat was already quite full by this point but we ended up having several more stops on the way.
We saw a few whales in the distance on the trip, but mostly it was a long, cold, journey for a tired group of folk. We'd all gotten along very well while hiking; and even had the guide take a group photo, but no one wanted to talk now, we just wanted to be home, as did all the other people in the other groups. We ferried.. and ferried.. and ferried for 2.5 hours right up until just after 8pm. I don't even know where we went that it took that much longer than the way out! Overall I can't say we are sad we took the tour; I'm glad we did, as we got what we wanted out of it. I think we did well to be prepared for the things that may have surprised us ahead of time, aside from the wet shoes. Without that mistake we'd have been very happy indeed, but between that and the extra long ferry on the end... I'd just go with we got our money worth. The tour was supposed to be 9am to 7pm and instead was 8 to 8:30... we were beyond tired at this point... and now a wee bit peckish...
But thankfully Ísafjörður had a brewery very close by that was open late, so we headed to Dokkan Brugghús to sample. We ordered a taster tray which was mostly wins, and a few mehs, and some fries to share. They had many different types of sauces to try, some of which we'd never had, so we made sure to get the one's I'd never heard of. My favorite was some icelandic 'salad sauce' that was similar to, but not quite, some delicious abomination between tartar & ranch. I almost bought a bottle but rarely eat fries at home, anyway, so we did not. Our luggage was already starting to feel quite heavy this far into our trip to boot. I was still carting a large bottle of olive oil from Greece! Maybe next time I'll seek it out...
After our late snack we went straight back to the hotel and went to bed - this was the last organized activity of the trip, from here we returned to our
almost aimless wanderings.
I am not sure I'd ever get the opportunity again, but if he is ever once again on a trip we want to go on anyway I am booking that trip just as fast!
