Power Strips

Wow. I hadn’t seen that. That is why they took our bag to the naughty room where, somehow our favorite luggage tag came off the bag. Here’s the funny thing, no one said anything about the two power strips in my husband’s backpack.
 


Wow. I hadn’t seen that. That is why they took our bag to the naughty room where, somehow our favorite luggage tag came off the bag. Here’s the funny thing, no one said anything about the two power strips in my husband’s backpack.

We had the same experience. Power strip in the luggage was confiscated but one in carry-on bag was not.
 
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Wow. I hadn’t seen that. That is why they took our bag to the naughty room where, somehow our favorite luggage tag came off the bag. Here’s the funny thing, no one said anything about the two power strips in my husband’s backpack.
It's hard to find on their website. You'd think they'd make it super easy to find, since it's got some items people would think would be fine to bring.
 
Power strips are banned, but you can rent one from DCL. However, USB port charging hubs are still OK. They are a great way to use a single outlet to charge several devices at once.
 


From what I understand, it is the surge protector feature that is banned. Strips and hubs without surge protection should be OK. YMMV.
 
Note: on the Fantasy,, there are 2 usb at the desk with 2 additional USB connections , which are with the clock by the bed,,, Also, one US power plug by the clock as well. Not sure we need to bring additional power strips any longer,,,
 
Just my two cents. While the USB outlets provided at many locations (including the ships) are convenient, and may work just fine, there is no way of knowing what kind of power they are putting out. With today's expensive and delicate equipment I think that is worth the peace of mind to bring your own USB hub, as most of them "communicate" with your device and only provide the correct amperage to them.
 
Sensitive electronics is a fable that gets the naive to buy high profit, magic boxes. Electronics today are some of the most robust appliances. A UPS outputs power so dirty as to be harmful to motorized appliances - ie refrigerator, vacuum cleaner. That same power is ideal for more robust electronics.

Problem is that some USB chargers do not do what they claim or what many only assume. Your device must provide a current defined by an amp number. If that USB charger does not output a specific current (ie 2.1 amps), then the problem is a user who did not always check numbers.

Power strips without protector parts and with the always required circuit breaker are safe. Protectors contain parts that can and have created fires. What is banned on a cruise ship is best not in homes of better informed consumers - who always seek or demand numbers with every recommendation.
 
Power strips without protector parts and with the always required circuit breaker are safe. Protectors contain parts that can and have created fires. What is banned on a cruise ship is best not in homes of better informed consumers - who always seek or demand numbers with every recommendation.
My "Greek" is a little rusty, would you mind explaining the "protector parts" and the numbers you recommend? The last thing anyone needs is a fire and I'd rather be one of the informed consumers. Thanks.
 
Just my two cents. While the USB outlets provided at many locations (including the ships) are convenient, and may work just fine, there is no way of knowing what kind of power they are putting out. With today's expensive and delicate equipment I think that is worth the peace of mind to bring your own USB hub, as most of them "communicate" with your device and only provide the correct amperage to them.
HI,, I have an iPhone 6 Plus and 2 iPads,,, all were perfect after the week. In face they all grew Ears.. Hmmm How could that be? LOL,,, all good,,
 
... would you mind explaining the "protector parts" and the numbers you recommend?
A power strip without protector parts has wires that connect each plug prong to each receptacle hole. Only a circuit breaker (and maybe a switch) is in-between those connections. That circuit breaker will safely disconnect power if too much current is drawn by the load (connected appliances), That is a safe power strip. It does not try to absorb energy. It either connects electricity safely to appliances or cuts off power.

UL tests appliances for human safety. So a power strip without protector parts may have a UL 1363 listing. Always read numbers.

Some manufacturers may including protector parts inside that $3 power strip. The most common part is called an MOV or varistor. An adjacent protector strip must either 'block' or 'absorb' surge energy. How much energy can it absorb? A protector strip lists a maximum joule number - typically hundreds or thousand joules.

Then a $3 power strip with ten cent protector parts are sold for $25 or $85. Note an obscene profit margin.

What happens when a potentially destructive surge (hundreds of thousands of joules) exists? Protector parts inside that power strip will 'absorb' too much energy. Protector parts may catastrophically explode or burst in flames.

A hundreds joule surge is safely consumed by electronics without damage. A surge too tiny to overwhelm superior protection inside appliances can destroy a 'near zero joule' protector strips. That promoted sales.

Fires from protector power strips have been routine. Starting in the early 1980s, UL tested power strips for their human safety threat - UL 1449. Any power strip that lists that number is a surge protector power strip. It contains ten cent protector parts to absorb surge energy.

Unfortunately, UL 1449 listed protector strips still created fires. UL has now revised the standard at least three times due to so many fires. APC recently admitted some 15 million of their strips must be removed immediately due to fires. Energy, too tiny to harm appliances, has even created fires inside 'near zero joule' protector strips.

Most who make recommendations did not learn any of this. Advertising calls it a surge protector. So a majority use junk science reasoning to assume it does surge protection. It does absorb energy ... of a surge too tiny to damage any appliance. Or fail catastrophically. Catastrophic protector failure is completely unacceptable. But gets naive consumers to recommend it and buy more. Too many consumers ignore numbers.

Power strips with UL 1449 listing are power strip protectors. These must be protected by something completely different called a 'whole house' protector (if properly earthed). Power strips with a UL 1363 rating would not have protector parts. Power strips without any UL number are best suspect as a threat to human life.

Best power strip has no protectors parts and always has that 15 amp circuit breaker. Better ones also have a UL 1363 listing. Then that power strip has no parts that fail catastrophically - sometimes even create house fires.

Best protection for all appliances is a properly earthed 'whole house' solution. To even protect power strips with a UL 1449 listing.
 
A power strip without protector parts has wires that connect each plug prong to each receptacle hole. Only a circuit breaker (and maybe a switch) is in-between those connections. That circuit breaker will safely disconnect power if too much current is drawn by the load (connected appliances), That is a safe power strip. It does not try to absorb energy. It either connects electricity safely to appliances or cuts off power.

UL tests appliances for human safety. So a power strip without protector parts may have a UL 1363 listing. Always read numbers.

Some manufacturers may including protector parts inside that $3 power strip. The most common part is called an MOV or varistor. An adjacent protector strip must either 'block' or 'absorb' surge energy. How much energy can it absorb? A protector strip lists a maximum joule number - typically hundreds or thousand joules.

Then a $3 power strip with ten cent protector parts are sold for $25 or $85. Note an obscene profit margin.

What happens when a potentially destructive surge (hundreds of thousands of joules) exists? Protector parts inside that power strip will 'absorb' too much energy. Protector parts may catastrophically explode or burst in flames.

A hundreds joule surge is safely consumed by electronics without damage. A surge too tiny to overwhelm superior protection inside appliances can destroy a 'near zero joule' protector strips. That promoted sales.

Fires from protector power strips have been routine. Starting in the early 1980s, UL tested power strips for their human safety threat - UL 1449. Any power strip that lists that number is a surge protector power strip. It contains ten cent protector parts to absorb surge energy.

Unfortunately, UL 1449 listed protector strips still created fires. UL has now revised the standard at least three times due to so many fires. APC recently admitted some 15 million of their strips must be removed immediately due to fires. Energy, too tiny to harm appliances, has even created fires inside 'near zero joule' protector strips.

Most who make recommendations did not learn any of this. Advertising calls it a surge protector. So a majority use junk science reasoning to assume it does surge protection. It does absorb energy ... of a surge too tiny to damage any appliance. Or fail catastrophically. Catastrophic protector failure is completely unacceptable. But gets naive consumers to recommend it and buy more. Too many consumers ignore numbers.

Power strips with UL 1449 listing are power strip protectors. These must be protected by something completely different called a 'whole house' protector (if properly earthed). Power strips with a UL 1363 rating would not have protector parts. Power strips without any UL number are best suspect as a threat to human life.

Best power strip has no protectors parts and always has that 15 amp circuit breaker. Better ones also have a UL 1363 listing. Then that power strip has no parts that fail catastrophically - sometimes even create house fires.

Best protection for all appliances is a properly earthed 'whole house' solution. To even protect power strips with a UL 1449 listing.
Thanks for such detail. Still not sure I completely understand, but I have a better understanding now.

I have surge protectors (Belkin) and USB chargers (Anker) and neither have a number on them. They have the UL symbol, but no 1363 or 1449. They all have different numbers that start with and E. So do I trust my plugs? I have thought about getting a device put on the house panel to eliminate the need for surge protectors, but that wouldn't help me when I travel.
 

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