Fireworks Tips

BaymaxFan78

Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 10, 2019
Does anybody have tips for recording fireworks? I recorded the NYE ones at WDW last year and it came out good but everytime a firework exploded it got blurry. Thanks!

I have a Canon EOS M50
 
While I usually am not a huge fan of this site, Ken Rockwell has a pretty good guide on fireworks basics:

https://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/fireworks.htm
Since you have an ILC, one thing to look for is lenses that are highly corrected for coma, if you can. There aren't a lot of Canon options, but anything with aspherical elements has at least some of it. Ideally the Nikkor 58mm f/1.2 Noct, but that's a $3,000 lens in rough shape. :)
 
While I usually am not a huge fan of this site, Ken Rockwell has a pretty good guide on fireworks basics:
https://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/fireworks.htmSince you have an ILC, one thing to look for is lenses that are highly corrected for coma, if you can. There aren't a lot of Canon options, but anything with aspherical elements has at least some of it. Ideally the Nikkor 58mm f/1.2 Noct, but that's a $3,000 lens in rough shape. :)

LOL !
actually if the OP had a Nikon mirrorless they wouldn't have many options :)
and the importance of a "coma" and cost is debatable

fortunately mirrorless camers can easily use DSLR lenses .... so there are plenty of options :)
www.flickr.com/photos/mmirrorless

and tips for shooting fireworks
https://www.nationalgeographic.com/photography/proof/2017/06/photographing-fireworks-tips/

 
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To the OP - define "blurry". Was this shutter speed, autofocus, or something else? Handheld?
 
Can the OP clarify: are you talking about video recording or still photography?

I don't know a lot about recording videos (I do more stills), but it sounds like the camera is refocusing with every firework burst. Whether it's video or stills, I'd set the focus before the show and then switch it to manual focus so that the camera won't refocus.
 
Can the OP clarify: are you talking about video recording or still photography?

I don't know a lot about recording videos (I do more stills), but it sounds like the camera is refocusing with every firework burst. Whether it's video or stills, I'd set the focus before the show and then switch it to manual focus so that the camera won't refocus.
I'm talking about taking a video of the entire show.
 


To the OP - define "blurry". Was this shutter speed, autofocus, or something else? Handheld?
I honestly don't remember my settings. I had it on a tripod, it was autofocus. By blurry I meant that everytime a firework exploded (like a red one for example) everything would turn red. almost like it was over exposed but it wasn't.
 
I honestly don't remember my settings. I had it on a tripod, it was autofocus. By blurry I meant that everytime a firework exploded (like a red one for example) everything would turn red. almost like it was over exposed but it wasn't.
There are a lot of things that could cause that, but a few candidates are that you didn't lock off your white balance to a preset, and that things actually did turn that red, your eyes just compensated it out for you. I'd have to see a video to diagnose for sure.
 
There are a lot of things that could cause that, but a few candidates are that you didn't lock off your white balance to a preset, and that things actually did turn that red, your eyes just compensated it out for you. I'd have to see a video to diagnose for sure.

It won't let me upload a clip of it but hopefully these screenshots give you the idea



412559disblur1.PNG
 
Those big comet like blobs are lens flare. Do you have any filters on your lens? Because that looks like filter flare (or at least from a very flat lens element), and even a Multicoated UV or NC filter adds a ton of lens flare to in-scene light sources.

I didn't even think of that at first since I rarely use filters anymore unless I'm exposing the front element to some pretty nasty dust/mud or using a polarizer or ND filter. Anything that will break a, "protective," filter will also take out the front element from the glass hitting glass, but 90% of the things that will take out a filter won't damage the front element which is much tougher. Plus, a hood provides much better protection and is included with most lenses.
 
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Those big comet like blobs are lens flare. Do you have any filters on your lens? Because that looks like filter flare (or at least from a very flat lens element), and even a Multicoated UV or NC filter adds a ton of lens flare to in-scene light sources
No I'm just using the standard lens that came with the camera (I cant afford a new one right now) and no filters. I tried getting a hood but you can only buy it from canon directly and it won't be here in time



EDIT: I'm not sure why the quotes messed up but yeah
 
A hood won't protect from this sort of flare, unfortunately, those protect from light sources just outside of the frame, but this is a light source inside of the frame. Since you're using a 15-45 the construction indicates that this is actually flare coming from a sensor reflection, which makes it even trickier. I don't think I've ever seen this sort of flare on any modern-ish Canon lens, it's fairly unusual to say the least. Of course, a hood is a good thing to have anyway just in general, it gives your normal photos higher contrast and protects your lens elements.

Without getting a more flare resistant lens, the best you can hope for is to clean the lens very thoroughly, front and back, to minimize anything caused by something on the lens itself. It usually won't help much, but every little bit counts. Zeiss and Nikon market pre-moistened lens wipes that you can carry around easily. Also, stop down your aperture to f/8 or even f/11 if you have to and let the ISO climb - it's not ideal, but it'll also reduce this.

You can also rent a higher quality lens and have it delivered to your hotel room, but for the EF-M mount I'm not sure there's anything that would do enough better to justify the cost without kludging on an adapter as well, which are very difficult to rent, and drives up the cost a bunch.

For future reference, the things to look for with flare resistance are a lens with fewer elements and a less complex design (e.g. prime lenses), higher quality coatings (usually found on pro lenses) and, weirdly, SLR lenses with an adapter. One of the causes of this sort of flare is a sensor reflection on a short back focus (e.g. mirrorless) lens, which both Nikon and Canon have a special coating to substantially reduce, but so far only on their 1, Z and R lenses, not the EF-M.
 
I have to admit I'm not much into the tech aspect of video but the some of the still parts should be the same as still. Can you modify your video settings and stop the lens down to f8 or so? There's also the possibility using of an ND filter. When the powder explodes, the system, in video mode, can't differentiate enough between the brightest spot in the scene and the darkest. I'm not say this is totally a dynamic range issue (flare was my first thought), but we can't discount it either.
 
If it were a CCD sensor, you could see vertical halo bars, but this is diagonal and on a CMOS sensor. When the fireworks go off it surprisingly shouldn't affect exposure more than 1/3 of 1/2 of a stop - it takes longer than the firework burn for a Canon camera to adjust, and it's taking up a tiny portion of the frame so it will tend to expose for the much larger dark areas.

Canon actually describes what's happening in this video when they describe their new coating for the rear element of RF lenses:

Basically, the very bright light reflects off of the sensor, then hits the back element of the lens, then some of it reflects back to the sensor again. Since the sensor gain is already so high for night shooting, it shows up very well, and the diagonal pattern is caused by the CMOS rolling shutter. One could crank the ISO down manually by dialing in negative EC, but that only masks the issue somewhat and makes the rest of the scene darker.

There's no real cheap way to get rid of it entirely, since it either involves expensive lens coatings or going to a longer mount (Canon EF/Nikon F/Pentax K/Arri PL), or preferably both. I can produce that exact flare pattern with one of my F mount DSLRs if I use my old 50 f/1.8D lenses - though with stills the aperture blades literally show up in the image with that lens. And an ND filter won't help either unless it's at the back of the lens. However, now that you mention it, a polarizer might help since removing reflections is its main job description - though I don't have time to set up a way to reproduce that and test it in time. It should be fairly easy though, I can use a remote control spotlight.

The most important thing without throwing money at the problem means making sure the lens is clean so that there's nothing extra, even oil from your skin or any dust, to provide extra reflections.
 

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