Car shopping tips

[xlxo]

Thoughts....

• the last week of the month is a great time to go car shopping. Dealers are trying to make their quota and you might find "incentives" or "discounts". Just remember is a popular time and the color/model may not be in stock at the local dealer.
• there was mention of a Prius..... I love my Prius V. In this day of congestion..... I find hybrids are the best way to deal with slow traffic. The battery allows me to beat fuel economy. I get anything from 45 to 60mpg depending on how I drive. If you don't like the look of Prius.... check out the other Toyota/Lexus hybrids. I find Toyota, GM and Kia hybrids and electrics are the most car like in handling. Ford, BMW, and Smart have very aggressive regenerative braking which makes it uncomfortable to drive.
• Plug-in and plug-in hybrids are great if you have a plug. Older apartments and street parking will be a challenge to charge without a plug. Gas hybrids are better for these drivers.
• If you like to drive your car more than 7 years.... think car parts. There are so many Prii on the road that looking for parts in the junkyard should be easy. Getting a popular high volume model would be one strategy.

 

[gottaluvPluto]

You can do everything at home through email and then go and drive and look over the before you sign the papers. It is a very easy process.

 

[Squirlz]

ALWAYS drive a car before you buy it. I mean the exact car. My mom once refused to buy a van in the color she wanted because after driving it she said something wasn't right. She drove and purchased an identically equipped van in a color she hated instead. When she took her van in for service, the dealership owner told her there was in fact something wrong with the van she refused to buy.

All 4 cars in our garage were bought before we drove them. That's tough to do when they are custom ordered.

 

[StitchesGr8Fan]

All 4 cars in our garage were bought before we drove them. That's tough to do when they are custom ordered.

Even if you order it, you can refuse to take it if there is something wrong. You can insist they fix it before you take ownership.

 

[Klayfish]

Even if you order it, you can refuse to take it if there is something wrong. You can insist they fix it before you take ownership.

The odds of something being wrong with a brand new car are incredibly slim. The odds of you noticing it on an initial test drive are even slimmer. Yes, I'm sure someone, somewhere at some time had that happen to them, but I'd be very confident that it's far less than 1% of the time. And even for that far sub 1%, the problem is probably something minor that can be fixed easily (usually something is loose). Brand new cars with major issues are pretty rare, and usually not found on a test drive. If you want to insist on driving the new car first, it's certainly not wrong, but it's just not necessary.

Don't use MSRP as your negotiating point. It's a joke. That's what the manufacturer "suggests" the car be sold for. It's got nothing to do with what the car actually sells for. So if you think you got a great deal because it was $3000 off MSRP, it's possible you got a good deal, but it's also very possible you got ripped off. In fact, dealers who push hard by saying "$xxxx off MSRP" are usually the shady ones. The honest ones don't bother with it, because they know it's a fictitious number.

 

[xlxo]

If you live in or near a big city.... I just look up online what is at each dealership before driving to it. By the time I arrive... the color and model is waiting to be picked up with a quick test drive.

 

[bellebud]

Good luck. I'm not allowed to go car shopping with my husband. I ohhhh and ahhhh to much, and take the first price they offer

 

[shelemm]

As #21 said, you want to buy your car at the end of the month. Get all your ducks in a row (if financing) so you can walk into the dealership with your financing already in hand. The last couple of days of the month will get you the best deal. You should listen to this very entertaining program about the 'behind the scenes' at a car dealership:

https://www.thisamericanlife.org/radio-archives/episode/513/129-cars

 

[akl432]

As #21 said, you want to buy your car at the end of the month. Get all your ducks in a row (if financing) so you can walk into the dealership with your financing already in hand. The last couple of days of the month will get you the best deal. You should listen to this very entertaining program about the 'behind the scenes' at a car dealership:

I know this is an older thread, but I'm starting the process to buy a new car now, and this thread is so helpful! When do you start the email process to ask for the best deal over email -- do you wait until the last few days of the month to start emailing, or earlier in the month?

 

[Klayfish]

It really doesn't matter. You're in control. If you're patient, you can string it along for weeks or months if you want. Dealers want to hit end of the month sales goals, but it's also when they tend to get REALLY busy, so may be hard to get the service/response you're looking for. We're coming up on the end of a quarter, which is a bigger deal than end of month, so could be a decent time...though being tax refund season may offset that some (car prices are high now). End of year is the best time to buy, but if want to buy now, shop carefully.

 

[dominiondad]

We've had really good luck with CarMax. Each time, I had a price in my head regarding what I wanted for my old car. Each time they beat it. They also have a lot of variety on their lot and will move cars from other locations if there's something else you want to look at. The price on the sticker is what you pay. You have 30 days after you buy it to come back with any repairs you think are needed. Each time I came back with a list of minor items and they've always made the repairs without any hesitation. I've actually had better luck with major repairs for CarMax vehicles than cars I've bought new. We will get all of our cars in the future there.

I realize this sounds like an ad. Nobody in my family, nor anybody I even know, works in the auto sales industry.

 

[akl432]

Thanks for the info! How do you handle a used car trade-in, when using the email process to ask for the best out-the-door price from several dealers? Mine is a 2000 Pontiac sunfire with 113K miles on it. I don't want to go through the hassle of selling it myself, so I want to determine the best way to trade it in. Do you finalize the price of your new car first, and then say you also have a trade-in?

 

[dominiondad]

Even if you don't buy there, CarMax will buy it. You just show up (no appointment needed). They take about an hour to look over the car and then offer you a price. The offer is good for several days (I think 7). They will pay or cash or apply it towards a purchase. If you dont like their price, you have no obligation to sell.

 

[Klayfish]

Thanks for the info! How do you handle a used car trade-in, when using the email process to ask for the best out-the-door price from several dealers? Mine is a 2000 Pontiac sunfire with 113K miles on it. I don't want to go through the hassle of selling it myself, so I want to determine the best way to trade it in. Do you finalize the price of your new car first, and then say you also have a trade-in?

They'll need to see the car. However, no offense at all (I love all cars) but a car like that will just be a wholesale car for them. It's too old for brand dealers, or even a CarMax, to put on their lot. The Sunfire was not a very well liked car, so it doesn't have much appeal except for it can be bought cheap now. You may only get $500 on trade offer for it because that's what it's worth at a wholesale auction. You'll have to decide if you'll just accept that or try to sell it yourself. You should tell the dealer up front and see what they say. Really, for your car it won't matter all that much.

CarMax tends to sell newer, low mileage vehicles. They're usually pretty nice cars. However, they're also overpriced. In all the cars I've had, I've never bought from them because they are several thousand above what I could get the same car for somewhere else. I do use them to take test drives of cars I'm interested in though.

 

[akl432]

Thanks for the info. I am not offended; I figured it's not worth much. Thank you for confirming!

If I went through the hassle of selling it myself, maybe I could get another $700-1,000 for it, but it's not worth the time/effort to me to sell it myself.

Do you think I should try CarMax (would they even consider my car) or only try to trade it in at a dealership?

 

[Klayfish]

I think you're right on track for the Sunfire's market value...probably in the $1200-$1500 range, give or take. So it's up to you if that's worth it. If it runs/drives well, you could sell it for $750-$1000 cash on Craigslist in a heartbeat. There's a HUGE market for those cars, I've bought and sold a bunch of them. But Craigslist is a pain in having to deal with people, so I understand why you may not want to. You aren't in Atlanta, are you?

It never hurts to ask the dealer, or CarMax, what they'd give you for it. Worst they're going to do is give you a number you don't like, so no harm. Just expect to get wholesale auction value.

 

[akl432]

I'm in Charlotte, NC Interesting -- so you think it would be easy to sell on Craigslist? Could you tell me how I would do it? Would I have to let the person do a test drive, and how would you recommending that I handle the payment and handover of the car to keep myself safe?

Also, would I literally accept cash, or a cashier's check?

 

[RUDisney]

Reading your responses, Klayfish, you sound just like my DH. He just bought his new (used) car from Florida. We're in PA. He also doesn't like to keep cars for very long. The longest he's kept anything is his work truck. He keeps trading his "play" cars.

He had the dealer send him pictures of the car from all angles and inside. He even had a friend who lives in FL go to the dealer to see how that paint was on the car to see how it needed to be fixed before being clear coated. It was shipped to the clear coat vendor before he picked it up.

He negotiates his vehicles and I do mine. We are both experienced negotiators, and it's best to not have anyone with you to mess up your negotiation if you're doing it in person.

For my last vehicle, I ordered it over the phone with no test drive. I've driven older models of the Ford Edge and liked them and I was giving up an Escape for this. Best decision I have made about a vehicle. I know that I get great deals from this particular Ford dealer and this time was the same. Very happy all around.

For my DH's car, he checked Carfax and some government site that sometimes has updates that Carfax doesn't. Everything checked clearly.

 

[Klayfish]

I'm in Charlotte, NC Interesting -- so you think it would be easy to sell on Craigslist? Could you tell me how I would do it? Would I have to let the person do a test drive, and how would you recommending that I handle the payment and handover of the car to keep myself safe?

Also, would I literally accept cash, or a cashier's check?

I have no doubt it'd be a breeze to sell on Craigslist, especially if it runs/drives relatively well and you price it right. Without seeing the car, I'd say that a ballpark value is $1400-$1800, give or take. However, as I mentioned a dealer probably would give you around $500 on trade. If you price it at say $1000, you'd be stunned at how many responses you get. In the sub-$1500 car market, most of them are disasters...very poor condition, poorly kept, questionable history, shady sellers, etc....so when a truly decent car shows up, it sells in a heartbeat. The actual process of selling it is the part most people don't want to get involved in, because it can be challenging. You'll get a ton of responses. Yes, you'd probably have to let the person test drive the car (I never go with them). In short, the way I handle all the responses is that I don't put my phone number in the ad, all initial contact is done by e-mail. I pretty quickly get a feel if the person is a scammer or shady character, and go from there. Payment for a car at that price range is cash only and I usually meet them at my bank or something like that. There's more to it, and I can give you details if you want, but the short answer is yes, you could sell it very quickly...but it may or may not be worth it to deal with Craigslist, as it can be a pain.

Reading your responses, Klayfish, you sound just like my DH. He just bought his new (used) car from Florida. We're in PA. He also doesn't like to keep cars for very long. The longest he's kept anything is his work truck. He keeps trading his "play" cars.

For my DH's car, he checked Carfax and some government site that sometimes has updates that Carfax doesn't. Everything checked clearly.

Yeah, that's pretty much me. I've bought cars from literally all around the country. I'm a PA native too...bought cars from AZ, Utah, MI, etc.... My "play" car days is where I racked up most of the insane number of cars that I've had. For years, I always had many cars at once, it's only in the past 2 years or so that I'm down to just one. Before the kids were born and/or got into playing expensive sports, DW and I had some really awesome and cool cars...we went to car shows, put on shows (started a car club), etc.... Those days are sadly gone, plus my disposable income is now spent on racing instead of play cars. It's an expensive hobby, I should have taken up chess.

Carfax is a good tool, but it's just that. Just because the report is "clean" does not mean the car has never been wrecked. In fact, there's a decent chance it has. But Carfax marketing does a terrific job in making you think it's more than it is.

 

[akl432]

I have no doubt it'd be a breeze to sell on Craigslist, especially if it runs/drives relatively well and you price it right. Without seeing the car, I'd say that a ballpark value is $1400-$1800, give or take. However, as I mentioned a dealer probably would give you around $500 on trade. If you price it at say $1000, you'd be stunned at how many responses you get. In the sub-$1500 car market, most of them are disasters...very poor condition, poorly kept, questionable history, shady sellers, etc....so when a truly decent car shows up, it sells in a heartbeat. The actual process of selling it is the part most people don't want to get involved in, because it can be challenging. You'll get a ton of responses. Yes, you'd probably have to let the person test drive the car (I never go with them). In short, the way I handle all the responses is that I don't put my phone number in the ad, all initial contact is done by e-mail. I pretty quickly get a feel if the person is a scammer or shady character, and go from there. Payment for a car at that price range is cash only and I usually meet them at my bank or something like that. There's more to it, and I can give you details if you want, but the short answer is yes, you could sell it very quickly...but it may or may not be worth it to deal with Craigslist, as it can be a pain.

Yes, I would love the details, if you don't mind sharing! I was thinking maybe I could try posting it on NextDoor first; my neighborhood has a fairly extensive network who use NextDoor, and that might help limit the shady characters.